Years Journey through France and Part of Spain | Page 4

of the field,
than of their lords and masters, and made too, on the other side of that
kingdom. Having seen as much of Paris as I desired, some years ago, I
intend to pass through the provinces of Artois, Champaigne,
Bourgogne, and so on to _Lyons_; by which route you will perceive, I
shall leave the capital of this kingdom many leagues on my right hand,
and see some considerable towns, and taste now and then of the most
delicious wines, on the spots which produce them; beside this, I have a
great desire to see the remains of a Roman subterranean town, lately
discovered in Champaigne, which perhaps may gratify my curiosity in
some degree, and thereby lessen that desire I have: long had of visiting
Herculaneum, an _under-ground_ town you know, I always said I
would visit, if a certain person happened to be put _under-ground_
before me; but the CAUSE, and the event, in all human affairs, are not
to be fathomed by men; for though the event happened, the cause
frustrated my design; and I must cross the Pyranean not the Alpian hills.
But lest I forget it, let me tell you, that as my travelling must be upon
the frugal plan, I have sold my four-wheel post-chaise, to _Mons.
Dessein_, for twenty-two guineas, and bought a French cabriolet, for
ten, and likewise a very handsome English coach-horse, (a little
touched in the wind indeed) for seven. This equipage I have fitted up
with every convenience I can contrive, to carry me, my wife, two
daughters, and all my other baggage; you will conclude therefore, light
as the latter may be, we are _bien charge_; but as we move slowly, not
above seven leagues a day, I shall have the more leisure to look about
me, and to consider what sort of remarks may prove most worthy of

communicating from time to time to you. I shall be glad to leave this
town, though it is in one respect, something like your's,[B] everyday
producing many strange faces, and some very agreeable acquaintance.
The arrival of the packet-boats from Dover constitutes the principal
amusement of this town.
[B] BATH.
The greater part of the English transports who come over, do not
proceed much further than to see the tobacco plantations near _St.
Omer_'s; nor is their return home less entertaining than their arrival, as
many of them are people of such quick parts, that they acquire, in a
week's tour to Dunkirk, Bologne, and _St. Omer_'s, the language, dress
and manners of the country. You must not, however, expect to hear
again from me, till I am further _a-field_. But lest I forget to mention it
in a future letter, let me refresh your memory, as to your conduct at
Dover, at Sea, and at Calais. In the first of these three disagreeable
places, (and the first is the worst) you will soon be applied to by one of
the Captains of the packets, or bye-boats, and if you hire the boat to
yourself, he will demand five guineas; if you treat with another, it is all
one, because they are all, except one, partners and equally interested;
and therefore will abate nothing. Captain Watson is the only one who
_swims upon his own bottom_; and as he is a good seaman, and has a
clean, convenient, nay an elegant vessel, I would rather turn the scale in
his favour, because I am, as you will be, an enemy to all associations
which have a tendency to imposition upon the public, and oppression to
such who will not join in the general confederacy; yet I must, in justice
to the Captains of the confederate party, acknowledge, that their vessels
are all good; _well found_; and that they are civil, decent-behaved men.
As it is natural for them to endeavour to make the most of each trip,
they will, if they can, foist a few passengers upon you, even after you
have taken the vessel to your own use only. If you are alone, this
intrusion is not agreeable, but if you have ladies with you, never submit
to it; if they introduce men, who appear like gentlemen upon your
vessel, you cannot avoid treating them as such; if women, you cannot
avoid them treating them with more attention than may be convenient,
because they are women; but were it only in consideration of the

sea-sickness and its consequences, can any thing be more disagreeable
than to admit people to pot and porringer with you, in a small close
cabin, with whom you would neither eat, drink, or converse, in any
other place? but these are not the only reasons; every gentleman going
to France should avoid making new acquaintance, at Dover, at Sea, or
at _Calais_: many adventurers