Woodwork Joints | Page 8

(Fig. 70).--Should the
halving joint be used at the end of a piece of wood, as at Fig. 30, the
waste material may be roughly sawn away and the flat surface trimmed
up with a chisel.
To saw out this type of halving joint, proceed to work the shoulder line
as already described; then place the piece of wood obliquely in the vice
as shown (Fig. 70) and proceed to saw down the vertical line, carefully
watching the gauge line to see that you saw on the waste side of the
lines. Then turn the piece of timber with its opposite edge towards you,
and again use the saw as illustrated. You will this time only have to
watch the gauge mark on the edge of the wood, because the saw will
readily follow in the saw kerf already made. Now place the wood
vertically in the vice, and keeping the saw in a horizontal position, saw
down to the shoulder line.
Halving joints properly made and fitted should knock together with the
weight of the clenched fist; the use of a heavy mallet or hammer will
deface the work.
[Illustration: Fig. 71.--Joints used in the erection of a Queen Post Roof
Truss.]

THE BRIDLE JOINT
A bridle joint is often defined as the reverse of a mortise and tenon, and
is chiefly used in the carpentry and joinery trades. The name probably
originated from the fact that it bears some resemblance to the manner in
which a bit slips into the horse's mouth and is fastened to the bridle.
There are fewer varieties of the bridle joint than of the halved or the
mortise and tenon; and this being the case we may take the opportunity
of giving a few detailed directions, with explanatory illustrations, on
the setting out and the making.
[Illustration: Fig. 72.--Simple Bridle Joint.]
Fig. 72 shows a bridle joint in what is perhaps its simplest form, the

separate pieces being given at the left and the completed joint at the
right. A joint of this type may be applied in nearly all cases where a
halved or a mortise and tenon joint could be used. Bridle joints have an
advantage as regards appearance over the mortise and tenoned variety
in cases such as Fig. 73, which shows an occasional table leg fitted to
the circular top framing. The bridle joint here allows the grain of the
leg to run through to the top, and gives a better and more workmanlike
appearance to the completed article.
[Illustration: Fig. 73.--Table Leg Bridle-jointed to Rail.]
Fig. 74 is a "Mitred bridle joint," the part a showing the upright portion
separated. This is a most useful joint for positions similar to that shown
in the small glass frame, Fig. 75. The wood framing in this case is only
1-3/8 in. in width, and if a mortise were used it would have to be
exceptionally small. The shaped rail at the bottom of this frame again
shows the application of the bridle joint.
Fig. 76 shows an "Oblique bridle joint," used in many instances as a
brace, or strut, to prevent framing from racking. (See also Figs. 31 and
32.)
Fig. 77 is a "Stopped bridle joint," used in positions where the top or
bottom edge of the work meets the eye, and where, if the rail were
allowed to run through, the end grain would appear unsightly.
[Illustration: Fig. 74.--Mitre Bridle Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 75.--Mirror Frame with Bridle Joints.]
Fig. 78 is a so-called bridle-joint at the corner of a frame. This is also
called an "Open slot mortise and tenon joint," a good strong,
serviceable joint which can be used instead of the closed mortise and
tenon type, its advantage being that less labour is required in the
making. (See also Fig. 169.)
Fig. 79 is an "Oblique angle bridle joint," used in similar positions to
the above, but when the two pieces meet at an acute angle at the end of

a frame.
Fig. 80 shows the application of the bridle joint to a roof truss. Two
sketches are shown at the joining of the tie beam and the principal
rafter. The joint a is the type generally used. (See also Fig. 71 for the
joints in a queen post roof.)
[Illustration: Fig. 76.--Oblique Bridle Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 77.--Stopped Bridle Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 78.--Bridle Joint at Corner of Frame.]
[Illustration: Fig. 79.--Oblique Angle Bridle Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 80.--Application of Bridle Joint to Roof Truss.]
SETTING OUT AND MARKING.--It is a safe rule, when setting out a
bridle joint, to divide the thickness of the timber into three equal parts.
This will leave the timber on each side of the tongue equal to the
thickness of the tongue, thus giving uniform strength to the joint. The
bridle joint is