Wonderful Adventures of Mrs. Seacole in Many Lands | Page 9

a certain
extent fresh from civilization, and had scarcely thrown off its control;
whereas the homeward bound revelled in disgusting excess of licence.
Although many of the women on their way to California showed
clearly enough that the life of licence they sought would not be
altogether unfamiliar to them, they still retained some appearance of
decency in their attire and manner; but in many cases (as I have before

said) the female companions of the successful gold-diggers appeared in
no hurry to resume the dress or obligations of their sex. Many were
clothed as the men were, in flannel shirt and boots; rode their mules in
unfeminine fashion, but with much ease and courage; and in their
conversation successfully rivalled the coarseness of their lords. I think,
on the whole, that those French lady writers who desire to enjoy the
privileges of man, with the irresponsibility of the other sex, would have
been delighted with the disciples who were carrying their principles
into practice in the streets of Cruces.
The chief object of all the travellers seemed to be dinner or supper; I do
not know what term they gave it. Down the entire length of the
Independent Hotel ran a table covered with a green oilskin cloth, and at
proper intervals were placed knives and forks, plates, and cups and
saucers turned down; and when a new-comer received his ticket, and
wished to secure his place for the coming repast, he would turn his
plate, cup, and saucer up; which mode of reserving seats seemed
respected by the rest. And as the evening wore on, the shouting and
quarrelling at the doorway in Yankee twang increased momentarily;
while some seated themselves at the table, and hammering upon it with
the handles of their knives, hallooed out to the excited nigger cooks to
make haste with the slapjack. Amidst all this confusion, my brother
was quietly selling shirts, boots, trousers, etc., to the travellers; while
above all the din could be heard the screaming voices of his touters
without, drawing attention to the good cheer of the Independent Hotel.
Over and over again, while I cowered in my snug corner, wishing to
avoid the notice of all, did I wish myself safe back in my pleasant home
in Kingston; but it was too late to find out my mistake now.
At last the table was nearly filled with a motley assemblage of men and
women, and the slapjack, hot and steaming, was carried in by the black
cooks. The hungry diners welcomed its advent with a shout of delight;
and yet it did not seem particularly tempting. But beyond all doubt it
was a capital pièce de résistance for great eaters; and before the dinner
was over, I saw ample reasons to induce any hotel-keeper to give it his
patronage. In truth, it was a thick substantial pancake of flour, salt, and
water--eggs were far too expensive to be used in its composition; and

by the time the supply had disappeared, I thought the largest appetites
must have been stayed. But it was followed by pork, strips of beef
stewed with hard dumplings, hams, great dishes of rice, jugs of
molasses and treacle for sauce; the whole being washed down with an
abundance of tea and coffee. Chickens and eggs were provided for
those who were prepared to pay for these luxuries of Panama life. But,
so scarce and expensive were they, that, as I afterwards discovered,
those hotel-keepers whose larders were so stocked would hang out a
chicken upon their signposts, as a sure attraction for the richer and
more reckless diggers; while the touter's cry of "Eggs and chickens
here" was a very telling one. Wine and spirits were also obtainable, but
were seldom taken by the Americans, who are abstemious abroad as
well as at home.
After dinner the store soon cleared. Gambling was a great attraction;
but my brother, dreading its consequences with these hot-brained
armed men, allowed none to take place in his hotel. So some lounged
away to the faro and monte tables, which were doing a busy trade;
others loitered in the verandah, smoking, and looking at the native
women, who sang and danced fandangos before them. The whole of the
dirty, woe-begone place, which had looked so wretched by the light of
day, was brilliantly illuminated now. Night would bring no rest to
Cruces, while the crowds were there to be fed, cheated, or amused.
Daybreak would find the faro-tables, with their piles of silver and little
heaps of gold-dust, still surrounded by haggard gamblers; daybreak
would gleam sickly upon the tawdry finery of the poor Spanish singers
and dancers, whose weary night's work would enable them to live upon
the travellers' bounty for the next week or so. These few hours of