Woman as Decoration | Page 5

suit in Philadelphia.--Hour-glass waist-line and attendant "vapours" were thought to be in the r?le of a high-born Victorian miss.--Appropriateness the contribution of our day to the story of woman's costuming
XXVI NATIONALITY IN COSTUME 296
When seen with perspective the costumes of various periods appear as distinct types though to the man or woman of any particular period the variations of the type are bewildering and misleading.--Having followed the evolution of the costume of woman of fashion which comes under the general head of European dress, before closing we turn to quite another field, that of national costumes.--Progress levels national differences, therefore the student must make the most of opportunities to observe.--Experiences in Hungary
XXVII MODELS 306
Historical interest attaches to fashions in woman's costuming.--One of the missions of art is to make subtle the obvious.--Examples as seen in 1917
XXVIII WOMAN COSTUMED FOR HER WAR JOB 313
The Pageant of Life shows that woman has played opposite man with consistency and success throughout the ages.--Apropos of this, we quote from Philadelphia Public Ledger, for March 25, 1917, an impression of a woman of to-day costumed appropriately to get efficiency in her war work
IN CONCLUSION 324
A brief review of the chief points to be kept in mind by those interested in the costuming of woman so that she figures as a decorative contribution to any setting

ILLUSTRATIONS
I MME. GERALDINE FARRAR IN GREEK COSTUME AS THA?S (FRONTISPIECE) vi Sketched by Thelma Cudlipp
II WOMAN IN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN SCULPTURE-RELIEF 9
III WOMAN IN GREEK ART 19
IV WOMAN ON GREEK VASE 29
V WOMAN IN GOTHIC ART 39 Portrait Showing Pointed Head-dress
VI WOMAN IN ART OF THE RENAISSANCE 49 Sculpture-relief in Terra-cotta: The Virgin
VII WOMAN IN ART OF THE RENAISSANCE 59 Sculpture-relief in Terra-cotta: Holy Women
VIII TUDOR ENGLAND 69 Portrait of Queen Elizabeth
IX SPAIN--VELASQUEZ PORTRAIT 79
X EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ENGLAND 89 Portrait by Thomas Gainsborough
XI BOURBON FRANCE 99 Portrait of Marie Antoinette by Madame Vigée Le Brun
XII COSTUME OF EMPIRE PERIOD 109 An English Portrait
XIII EIGHTEENTH CENTURY COSTUME 119 Portrait by Gilbert Stuart
XIV VICTORIAN PERIOD (ABOUT 1840) 129 Mme. Adeline Genée in Costume
XV LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY (ABOUT 1890) 139 A Portrait by John S. Sargent
XVI A MODERN PORTRAIT 149 By John W. Alexander
XVII A PORTRAIT OF MRS. PHILIP M. LYDIG 159 By I. Zuloaga
XVIII MRS. LANGTRY (LADY DE BATHE) IN EVENING WRAP 169
XIX MRS. CONDé NAST IN STREET DRESS 179 Photograph by Baron de Meyer
XX MRS. CONDé NAST IN EVENING DRESS 189
XXI MRS. CONDé NAST IN GARDEN COSTUME 199
XXII MRS. CONDé NAST IN FORTUNY TEA GOWN 209
XXIII MRS. VERNON CASTLE IN BALL COSTUME 219
XXIV MRS. VERNON CASTLE IN AFTERNOON COSTUME--WINTER 229
XXV MRS. VERNON CASTLE IN AFTERNOON COSTUME--SUMMER 239
XXVI MRS. VERNON CASTLE COSTUMED à LA GUERRE FOR A WALK 249
XXVII MRS. VERNON CASTLE--A FANTASY 259
XXVIII MODERN SKATING COSTUME--1917 269 Winner of Amateur Championship of Fancy Skating
XXIX A MODERN SILHOUETTE--1917 279 TAILOR-MADE Drawn from Life by Elisabeth Searcy
XXX TAPPé'S CREATIONS 289 Sketched for Woman as Decoration by Thelma Cudlipp
XXXI MISS ELSIE DE WOLFE IN COSTUME OF RED CROSS NURSE 299
XXXII MME. GERALDINE FARRAR IN SPANISH COSTUME AS CARMEN 309 From Photograph by Courtesy of Vanity Fair
XXXIII MME. GERALDINE FARRAR IN JAPANESE COSTUME AS MADAME BUTTERFLY 319 Sketched by Thelma Cudlipp
"The Communion of men upon earth abhors identity more than nature does a vacuum. Nothing so shocks and repels the living soul as a row of exactly similar things, whether it consists of modern houses or of modern people, and nothing so delights and edifies as distinction."
COVENTRY PATMORE.
"Whatever piece of dress conceals a woman's figure, is bound, in justice, to do so in a picturesque way."
From an Early Victorian Fashion Paper.
"When was that 'simple time of our fathers' when people were too sensible to care for fashions? It certainly was before the Pharaohs, and perhaps before the Glacial Epoch."
W. G. SUMNER, in Folkways.
CHAPTER I
A FEW HINTS FOR THE NOVICE WHO WOULD PLAN HER COSTUMES
There are a few rules with regard to the costuming of woman which if understood put one a long way on the road toward that desirable goal--decorativeness, and have economic value as well. They are simple rules deduced by those who have made a study of woman's lines and colouring, and how to emphasise or modify them by dress.
Temperaments are seriously considered by experts in this art, for the carriage of a woman and her manner of wearing her clothes depends in part upon her temperament. Some women instinctively feel line and are graceful in consequence, as we have said, but where one is not born with this instinct, it is possible to become so thoroughly schooled in the technique of controlling the physique--poise of the body, carriage of the head, movement of the limbs, use of feet and hands, that a sense of line is acquired. Study portraits by great masters, the movements of those on the stage, the carriage and positions natural