Woman as Decoration | Page 5

and texture.--Clyde Fitch's sensitiveness to the
same.--The wearing of jewels by men.--King Edward VII.--A
remarkable topaz worn by a Spaniard.--Its undoing as a decorative
object through its resetting
XXV IDIOSYNCRASIES IN COSTUME 292
Fashions in dress all powerful because they seize upon the public
mind.--They become the symbol of manners and affect human
psychology.--Affectations of the youth of Athens.--Les Merveilleux,
Les Encroyables, the Illuminati.--Schiller during the Storm and Stress
Period.--Venetian belles of the sixteenth century.--The Cavalier

Servente of the seventeenth century.--Mme. Récamier scandalised
London in eighteenth century by appearing costumed à la
Greque.--Mme. Jerome Bonaparte, a Baltimore belle, followed suit in
Philadelphia.--Hour-glass waist-line and attendant "vapours" were
thought to be in the rôle of a high-born Victorian
miss.--Appropriateness the contribution of our day to the story of
woman's costuming
XXVI NATIONALITY IN COSTUME 296
When seen with perspective the costumes of various periods appear as
distinct types though to the man or woman of any particular period the
variations of the type are bewildering and misleading.--Having
followed the evolution of the costume of woman of fashion which
comes under the general head of European dress, before closing we
turn to quite another field, that of national costumes.--Progress levels
national differences, therefore the student must make the most of
opportunities to observe.--Experiences in Hungary
XXVII MODELS 306
Historical interest attaches to fashions in woman's costuming.--One of
the missions of art is to make subtle the obvious.--Examples as seen in
1917
XXVIII WOMAN COSTUMED FOR HER WAR JOB 313
The Pageant of Life shows that woman has played opposite man with
consistency and success throughout the ages.--Apropos of this, we
quote from Philadelphia Public Ledger, for March 25, 1917, an
impression of a woman of to-day costumed appropriately to get
efficiency in her war work
IN CONCLUSION 324
A brief review of the chief points to be kept in mind by those interested
in the costuming of woman so that she figures as a decorative
contribution to any setting

ILLUSTRATIONS
I MME. GERALDINE FARRAR IN GREEK COSTUME AS THAÏS
(FRONTISPIECE) vi Sketched by Thelma Cudlipp
II WOMAN IN ANCIENT EGYPTIAN SCULPTURE-RELIEF 9
III WOMAN IN GREEK ART 19
IV WOMAN ON GREEK VASE 29
V WOMAN IN GOTHIC ART 39 Portrait Showing Pointed
Head-dress
VI WOMAN IN ART OF THE RENAISSANCE 49 Sculpture-relief in
Terra-cotta: The Virgin
VII WOMAN IN ART OF THE RENAISSANCE 59 Sculpture-relief
in Terra-cotta: Holy Women
VIII TUDOR ENGLAND 69 Portrait of Queen Elizabeth
IX SPAIN--VELASQUEZ PORTRAIT 79
X EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ENGLAND 89 Portrait by Thomas
Gainsborough
XI BOURBON FRANCE 99 Portrait of Marie Antoinette by Madame
Vigée Le Brun
XII COSTUME OF EMPIRE PERIOD 109 An English Portrait
XIII EIGHTEENTH CENTURY COSTUME 119 Portrait by Gilbert
Stuart
XIV VICTORIAN PERIOD (ABOUT 1840) 129 Mme. Adeline Genée
in Costume

XV LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY (ABOUT 1890) 139 A Portrait
by John S. Sargent
XVI A MODERN PORTRAIT 149 By John W. Alexander
XVII A PORTRAIT OF MRS. PHILIP M. LYDIG 159 By I. Zuloaga
XVIII MRS. LANGTRY (LADY DE BATHE) IN EVENING WRAP
169
XIX MRS. CONDÉ NAST IN STREET DRESS 179 Photograph by
Baron de Meyer
XX MRS. CONDÉ NAST IN EVENING DRESS 189
XXI MRS. CONDÉ NAST IN GARDEN COSTUME 199
XXII MRS. CONDÉ NAST IN FORTUNY TEA GOWN 209
XXIII MRS. VERNON CASTLE IN BALL COSTUME 219
XXIV MRS. VERNON CASTLE IN AFTERNOON
COSTUME--WINTER 229
XXV MRS. VERNON CASTLE IN AFTERNOON
COSTUME--SUMMER 239
XXVI MRS. VERNON CASTLE COSTUMED À LA GUERRE FOR
A WALK 249
XXVII MRS. VERNON CASTLE--A FANTASY 259
XXVIII MODERN SKATING COSTUME--1917 269 Winner of
Amateur Championship of Fancy Skating
XXIX A MODERN SILHOUETTE--1917 279 TAILOR-MADE
Drawn from Life by Elisabeth Searcy
XXX TAPPÉ'S CREATIONS 289 Sketched for Woman as Decoration

by Thelma Cudlipp
XXXI MISS ELSIE DE WOLFE IN COSTUME OF RED CROSS
NURSE 299
XXXII MME. GERALDINE FARRAR IN SPANISH COSTUME AS
CARMEN 309 From Photograph by Courtesy of Vanity Fair
XXXIII MME. GERALDINE FARRAR IN JAPANESE COSTUME
AS MADAME BUTTERFLY 319 Sketched by Thelma Cudlipp
"The Communion of men upon earth abhors identity more than nature
does a vacuum. Nothing so shocks and repels the living soul as a row
of exactly similar things, whether it consists of modern houses or of
modern people, and nothing so delights and edifies as distinction."
COVENTRY PATMORE.
"Whatever piece of dress conceals a woman's figure, is bound, in
justice, to do so in a picturesque way."
From an Early Victorian Fashion Paper.
"When was that 'simple time of our fathers' when people were too
sensible to care for fashions? It certainly was before the Pharaohs, and
perhaps before the Glacial Epoch."
W. G. SUMNER, in Folkways.
CHAPTER I
A FEW HINTS FOR THE NOVICE WHO WOULD PLAN HER
COSTUMES
There are a few rules with regard to the costuming of woman which if
understood put one a