What to See in England | Page 4

is probably
close to that part of the river Lea where King Alfred defeated the Danes.
They had penetrated far up the river when King Alfred diverted the
waters of the river from underneath their black vessels and left them
high and dry in a wilderness of marsh and forest. The gentle Charles
Lamb was very fond of the country all round Waltham Abbey,
especially Broxbourne and Amwell.
[Illustration: THE ABBEY GATE AT WALTHAM.
Waltham Abbey was founded in 1060 by Harold II.]

DOWNE
THE HOME OF DARWIN
=How to get there.=--Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or
London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway. =Nearest
Station.=--Orpington (3-1/2 to 4 miles from Downe). =Distance from
London.=--13-3/4 miles. =Average Time.=--35 minutes.
1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 2s. 4d. 1s. 6d. 1s. 2-1/2d. Return 4s. 0d. 3s.
0d. ...
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Queen's Head," at Downe, facing the
church. Hotels at Farnborough--"White Lion," "George and Dragon."
The home of the great scientist is still standing in the little village of
Downe in Kent. The road to the hamlet is through Farnborough, and the
walk takes an hour. Downe is a pleasant place, possessing a large
village pond and a small church with a shingled spire. Darwin's home,
known as Downe House, was built in the eighteenth century. Its front is
of white stucco, relieved by ivy and other creepers. The wing on the
west side of the house was added by Darwin shortly after he came to
live there. This new portion of the house was used partly to
accommodate his library. On the north side is the room used by Darwin
as a study, in which he wrote some of his most important works. The

garden of the house is sheltered and reposeful, and from the old
wall-garden to the south there is a beautiful view over the delightful
stretch of country in the direction of Westerham.
The life led by Darwin when at Downe was exceedingly quiet and
regular, for he always went to bed at an early hour, and rising at six was
enabled to get in a walk and breakfast before commencing work at
eight o'clock. At some other time of the day he would manage to get an
opportunity for another walk, and part of the evening would be given
up to his family and friends who were privileged to enjoy conversation
with the great author of The Origin of Species. Professor Haeckel,
describing a visit to Darwin's home, says, "There stepped out to meet
me from the shady porch ... the great naturalist himself, a tall and
venerable figure, with the broad shoulders of an Atlas supporting a
world of thought, his Jupiter-like forehead, highly and broadly arched ...
and deeply furrowed with the plough of mental labour; his kindly, mild
eyes looking forth under the shadow of prominent brows."
[Illustration: DOWNE HOUSE AT DOWNE, KENT.
The Home of Charles Darwin.]

EPSOM: ITS RACES AND ITS SALTS
=How to get there.=--From Waterloo, South-Western Railway. From
London Bridge or Victoria, London, Brighton, and South Coast Rly.
=Nearest Station.=--Epsom. =Distance from London.=--14 miles.
=Average Time.=--3/4 hour.
1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 2s. 3d. 1s. 6d. 1s. 2d. Return 3s. 0d. 2s. 6d.
2s. 2d.
=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"King's Head," "Spread Eagle," etc.
One must choose any other than a race-day if one wishes to see the
charming old town of Epsom at its best. But if, on the other hand, one
wishes, to see something of the scene on the race-course depicted in Mr.

Frith's famous picture, one gets no suggestion of the great spectacle
except on race-days. On these occasions, at the Spring meeting and
during Derby week, one has merely to follow the great streams of
humanity which converge on the downs from the roads from London
and from the railway stations. On ordinary days the wide rolling downs
are generally left alone to the health-giving breezes which blow over
them. In the town itself there is much to be seen of the
seventeenth-century architecture associated with the days of Epsom's
fame as a watering-place. The wide portion of the High Street at once
attracts one's notice, for with one or two exceptions its whole length is
full of the quaintest of buildings with cream walls and mossy tiled roofs.
The clock-tower was built in 1848, when it replaced a very simple old
watch-house with a curious little tower rising from it. The "Spread
Eagle" is one of the oldest of the Epsom inns; its irregular front and its
position looking up the High Street make it more conspicuous than the
"King's Head," an equally old and very interesting hostelry facing the
clock-tower. Pepys stayed there in 1667, for in his diary of July 14 of
that year he writes, "To Epsom, by eight o'clock, to the well; where
much company. And to