old houses, of which the best specimens are Nos. 8 and 9,
offices of the London Road Car Company, and No. 10. In the first a
well-furnished ceiling proclaims an ancient drawing-room; in the
second panelled walls and a spiral staircase set off a fine hall. This
house has a beautiful doorway of the old scallop-shell pattern, with
cherubs' heads and ornamental brackets decorating it. In the third house
a ceiling is handsomely finished with dental mouldings, and the edges
of the panels are all carved. A mantelpiece of white marble is very fine,
and of great height and solidity, with a female face as the keystone.
From Lambeth Bridge the Horseferry Road leads westward. This was
the main track to the ferry in ancient days, and as the ferry was the only
one on the Thames at London, it was consequently of great importance.
It was here that James II. crossed after escaping from Whitehall by
night, and from his boat he threw the Great Seal into the river.
Horseferry Road is strictly utilitarian, and not beautiful; it passes by
gasworks, a Roman Catholic church, Wesleyan chapel, Normal
Institute and Training College, all of the present century. North of it
Grosvenor Road becomes Millbank Street. The Abbot's watermill stood
at the end of College Street (further north), and was turned by the
stream which still flows beneath the roadway. In an old survey a mill is
marked on this spot, and is supposed to have been built by the same
Abbot Litlington who built the wall in College Street (1362-1386). It
was still standing in 1644, and mention is made of it at that date in the
parish books. The bank was a long strip of raised earth, extending from
here to the site of Peterborough House. Strype mentions "the Millbank"
as a "certain parcel of land valued in Edward VI.'s time at 58 shillings,
and given in the third of his reign" to one Joanna Smith for "services
rendered."
Church Street (left) leads into Smith Square. Here stands the Church of
St. John the Evangelist. This was the second of Queen Anne's fifty
churches built by imposing a duty on coals and culm brought into the
Port of London. The new district was formed in 1723, but the
consecration ceremony did not take place until June 20, 1728. The
architect was Archer, a pupil of Sir John Vanbrugh's, and the style,
which is very peculiar, has been described as Doric. The chief features
of the church are its four angle belfries, which were not included in the
original scheme of the architect, but were added later to insure an equal
pressure on the foundations. Owing to these the church has been
unkindly compared to an elephant with its four legs up in the air!
Another story has it that Queen Anne, being troubled in mind by much
wearisome detail, kicked over her wooden footstool, and said, "Go,
build me a church like that"; but this sounds apocryphal, especially in
view of the fact that the towers were a later addition. The church is
undoubtedly cumbrous, but has the merit of originality. In 1742 it was
gutted by fire, and was not rebuilt for some time owing to lack of funds.
In 1773 the roof was slightly damaged by lightning, and subsequently
repairs and alterations have taken place. The building seats 1,400
persons, and a canonry of Westminster Abbey is attached to the living.
The churchwardens of St. John's possess an interesting memento in the
form of a snuff-box, presented in 1801 by "Thomas Gayfere, Esq.,
Father of the Vestry of St. John the Evangelist." This has been handed
down to the succeeding office-bearers, who have enriched and enlarged
it by successive silver plates and cases.
Smith Square shows, like so much of Westminster, an odd mixture of
old brick houses, with heavily-tiled roofs, and new brick flats of great
height. In the south-west corner stands the Rectory. Romney and
Marsham Streets were called after Charles Marsham, Earl of Romney.
Tufton Street was named after Sir Richard Tufton. One of the cockpits
in Westminster was here as late as 1815, long after the more
fashionable one in St. James's Park had vanished. The northern part of
the street between Great Peter and Great College Streets was formerly
known as Bowling Alley. Here the notorious Colonel Blood lived.
Near the corner of Little Smith Street stands an architectural museum;
it is not a very large building, but the frontage is rendered interesting by
several statues and reliefs in stone. This, to give it its full title, is "The
Royal Architectural Museum and School of Art in connection with the
Science and Art Department." The gallery is open free from ten to four
daily, and in the rooms opening off its corridors art
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