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fields. It
was a panorama: the view extended for miles inland, and the fields of
different colored grain were spread out before us, a brilliant mosaic.
Towards evening we passed Ailsa Crag, the sea-bird's home, within
sight, though about twenty miles distant.
On Sunday, the 28th, we passed the lofty headland of the Mull of
Galloway and entered the Irish Sea. Here there was an occurrence of an
impressive nature. A woman, belonging to the steerage, who had been
ill the whole passage, died the morning before. She appeared to be of a
very avaricious disposition, though this might indeed have been the

result of self-denial, practised through filial affection. In the morning
she was speechless, and while they were endeavoring to persuade her to
give up her keys to the captain, died. In her pocket were found two
parcels, containing forty sovereigns, sewed up with the most miserly
care. It was ascertained she had a widowed mother in the north of
Ireland, and judging her money could be better applied than to paying
for a funeral on shore, the captain gave orders for committing the body
to the waves. It rained drearily as her corpse, covered with starred
bunting, was held at the gangway while the captain read the funeral
service; then one plunge was heard, and a white object, flashed up
through the dark waters, as the ship passed on.
In the afternoon we passed the Isle of Man, having a beautiful view of
the Calf, with a white stream tumbling down the rocks into the sea; and
at night saw the sun set behind the mountains of Wales. About
midnight, the pilot came on board, and soon after sunrise I saw the
distant spires of Liverpool. The Welsh coast was studded with
windmills, all in motion, and the harbor spotted with buoys, bells and
floating lights. How delightful it was to behold the green trees on the
banks of the Mersey, and to know that in a few hours we should be on
land! About 11 o'clock we came to anchor in the channel of the Mersey,
near the docks, and after much noise, bustle and confusion, were
transferred, with our baggage, to a small steamboat, giving a parting
cheer to the Iowas, who remained on board. On landing, I stood a
moment to observe the scene. The baggage-wagons, drawn by horses,
mules and donkeys, were extraordinary; men were going about crying
"_the celebrated Tralorum gingerbread!_" which they carried in baskets;
and a boy in the University dress, with long blue gown and yellow
knee-breeches, was running to the wharf to look at the Indians.
At last the carts were all loaded, the word was given to start, and then,
what a scene ensued! Away went the mules, the horses and the donkeys;
away ran men and women and children, carrying chairs and trunks, and
boxes and bedding. The wind was blowing, and the dust whirled up as
they dashed helter-skelter through the gate and started off on a hot race,
down the dock to the depot. Two wagons came together, one of which
was overturned, scattering the broken boxes of a Scotch family over the
pavement; but while the poor woman was crying over her loss, the tide
swept on, scarcely taking time to glance at the mishap.

Our luggage was "passed" with little trouble; the officer merely
opening the trunks and pressing his hands on the top. Even some
American reprints of English works which my companion carried, and
feared would be taken from him, were passed over without a word. I
was agreeably surprised at this, as from the accounts of some travellers,
I had been led to fear horrible things of custom-houses. This over, we
took a stroll about the city. I was first struck by seeing so many people
walking in the middle of the streets, and so many gentlemen going
about with pinks stuck in their button-holes. Then, the houses being all
built of brown granite or dark brick, gives the town a sombre
appearance, which the sunshine (when there is any) cannot dispel. Of
Liverpool we saw little. Before the twilight had wholly faded, we were
again tossing on the rough waves of the Irish Sea.

CHAPTER II
.
A DAY IN IRELAND.
On calling at the steamboat office in Liverpool, to take passage to Port
Rush, we found that the fare in the fore cabin was but two shillings and
a half, while in the chief cabin it was six times as much. As I had
started to make the tour of all Europe with a sum little higher than is
sometimes given for the mere passage to and fro, there was no
alternative--the twenty-four hours' discomfort could be more easily
endured than the expense, and as I expected to