Views a-foot | Page 2

friends to defray all expenses, and it was charitably noticed by the
Philadelphia press. Some literary friends, to whom I confided my
design, promised to aid me with their influence. Trusting to this, I made
arrangements for leaving the printing-office, which I succeeded in
doing, by making a certain compensation for the remainder of my time.
I was now fully confident of success, feeling satisfied, that a strong will

would always make itself a way. After many applications to different
editors and as many disappointments, I finally succeeded, about two
weeks before our departure, in making a partial engagement. Mr.
Chandler of the United States Gazette and Mr. Patterson of the
Saturday Evening Post, paid me fifty dollars, each, in advance for
twelve letters, to be sent from Europe, with the probability of accepting
more, if these should be satisfactory. This, with a sum which I received
from Mr. Graham for poems published in his Magazine, put me in
possession of about a hundred and forty dollars, with which I
determined to start, trusting to future remuneration for letters, or if that
should fail, to my skill as a compositor, for I supposed I could at the
worst, work my way through Europe, like the German hand werker.
Thus, with another companion, we left home, an enthusiastic and
hopeful trio.
I need not trace our wanderings at length. After eight months of
suspense, during which time my small means were entirely exhausted, I
received a letter from Mr. Patterson, continuing the engagement for the
remainder of my stay, with a remittance of one hundred dollars from
himself and Mr. Graham. Other remittances, received from time to time,
enabled me to stay abroad two years, during which I traveled on foot
upwards of three thousand miles in Germany, Switzerland, Italy and
France. I was obliged, however, to use the strictest economy--to live on
pilgrim fare, and do penance in rain and cold. My means several times
entirely failed; but I was always relieved from serious difficulty
through unlooked-for friends, or some unexpected turn of fortune. At
Rome, owing to the expenses and embarrassments of traveling in Italy,
I was obliged to give up my original design of proceeding on foot to
Naples and across the peninsula to Otranto, sailing thence to Corfu and
making a pedestrian journey through Albania and Greece. But the main
object of my pilgrimage is accomplished; I visited the principal places
of interest in Europe, enjoyed her grandest scenery and the marvels of
ancient and modern art, became familiar with other languages, other
customs and other institutions, and returned home, after two years'
absence, willing now, with satisfied curiosity, to resume life in
America.
Yours, most sincerely,
J. BAYARD TAYLOR.

CONTENTS.
I.--The Voyage
II.--A Day in Ireland
III.--Ben Lomond and the Highland Lakes
IV.--The Burns' Festival
V.--Walk from Edinburgh over the Border and arrival at London
VI.--Some of the "Sights" of London
VII.--Flight through Belgium
VIII.--The Rhine to Heidelberg
IX.--Scenes in and around Heidelberg
X.--A Walk through the Odenwald
XI.--Scenes in Frankfort--An American Composer--The Poet
Freiligrath
XII.--A week among the Students
XIII.--Christmas and New Year in Germany
XIV.--Winter in Frankfort--A Fair, an Inundation and a Fire
XV.--The Dead and the Deaf--Mendelssohn the Composer
XVI.--Journey on Foot from Frankfort to Cassel
XVII.--Adventures among the Hartz
XVIII.--Notes in Leipsic and Dresden
XIX.--Rambles in the Saxon Switzerland
XX.--Scenes in Prague
XXI.--Journey through Eastern Bohemia and Moravia to the Danube
XXII.--Vienna
XXIII.--Up the Danube
XXIV.--The Unknown Student
XXV.--The Austrian Alps
XXVI.--Munich
XXVII.--Through Wurtemberg to Heidelberg
XXVIII.--Freiburg and the Black Forest
XXIX.--People and Places in Eastern Switzerland
XXX.--Passage of the St Gothard and descent into Italy
XXXI.--Milan
XXXII.--Walk from Milan to Genoa
XXXIII.--Scenes in Genoa, Leghorn and Pisa
XXXIV.--Florence and its Galleries

XXXV.--A Pilgrimage to Vallombrosa
XXXVI.--Walk to Siena and Pratolino--Incidents in Florence
XXXVII.--American Art in Florence
XXXVIII.--An Adventure on the Great St. Bernard--Walks around
Florence
XXXIX.--Winter Traveling among the Appenines
XL.--Rome
XLI.--Tivoli and the Roman Campagna
XLII.--Tivoli and the Roman Campagna (_continued_)
XLIII.--Pilgrimage to Vaucluse and Journey up the Rhone
XLIV.--Traveling in Burgundy--The Miseries of a Country Diligence
XLV.--Poetical Scenes in Paris
XLVI.--A Glimpse of Normandy
XLVII.--Lockhart, Bernard Barton and Croly--London Chimes and
Greenwich Fair
XLVIII.--Homeward Bound--Conclusion

TO
FRANK TAYLOR,
THESE RECORDS OF THE PILGRIMAGE,
WHOSE TOILS AND ENJOYMENTS WE HAVE SHARED
TOGETHER,
ARE
AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED,
BY
HIS RELATIVE AND FRIEND.

VIEWS A-FOOT.

CHAPTER I
.
THE VOYAGE.
An enthusiastic desire of visiting the Old World haunted me from early
childhood. I cherished a presentiment, amounting almost to belief, that
I should one day behold the scenes, among which my fancy had so long

wandered. The want of means was for a time a serious check to my
anticipations; but I could not content myself to wait until I had slowly
accumulated so large a sum as tourists usually spend on their