VIII
The Houses of the Tarahumares--American Cave-dwellings of
To-day--Frequent Changes of Abode by the Tarahumare--The Patio or
Dancing Place--The Original Cross of America--Tarahumare
Storehouses, Pages 156-178
CHAPTER IX
Arrival at Batopilas--Ascent from Batopilas to the Highlands of the
Sierra--A Tarahumare who had been in Chicago--An Old-timer--Flight
of Our Native Guide and its Disastrous Consequences--Indians Burn
the Grass All Over the Country--Travelling Becomes too Difficult for
the Animals--Mr. Taylor and I Go to Zapuri--Its Surroundings--The
Pithaya in Season, Pages 179-189
CHAPTER X
Nice-looking Natives--Albinos--Ancient Remains in Ohuivo--Local
Traditions, the Cocoyomes, etc.--Guachochic--Don Miguel and "The
Postmaster"--A Variety of Curious Cures--Gauchochic Becomes My
Head-quarters--The Difficulty of Getting an Honest Interpreter--False
Truffles--The Country Suffering from a Prolonged Drought--A Start in
a Northwesterly Direction--Arrival at the Pueblo of Norogachic, Pages
190-202
CHAPTER XI
A Priest and His Family Make the Wilderness Comfortable for
Us--Ancient Remains Similar to those Seen in Sonora--The Climate of
the Sierra--Flora and Fauna--Tarahumare Agriculture--Ceremonies
Connected with the Planting of Corn--Deterioration of Domestic
Animals--Native Dogs of Mexico, Pages 203-217
CHAPTER XII
The Tarahumares Still Afraid of Me--Don Andres Madrid to the
Rescue--Mexican Robbers Among the Tarahumares--Mode of Burial in
Ancient Caves--Visit to Nonoava--The Indians Change their Minds
about Me, and Regard Me as a Rain-god--What the Tarahumares
Eat--A Pretty Church in the Wilderness--I Find at Last a Reliable
Interpreter and Proceed to Live à l'Indienne, Pages 218-234
CHAPTER XIII
The Tarahumare Physique--Bodily Movements--Not as Sensitive to
Pain as White Men--Their Phenomenal
Endurance--Health--Honesty--Dexterity and Ingenuity--Good
Observers of the Celestial Bodies and Weather-forecasters--Hunting
and Shooting--Home Industries--Tesvino, the Great National Drink of
the Tribe--Other Alcoholic Drinks, Pages 235-257
CHAPTER XIV
Politeness, and the Demands of Etiquette--The Daily Life of the
Tarahumare--The Woman's Position is High--Standard of
Beauty--Women Do the Courting--Love's Young Dream--Marriage
Ceremonies, Primitive and Civilised--Childbirth--Childhood, Pages
258-275
CHAPTER XV
Many Kinds of Games Among the Tarahumares--Betting and
Gambling--Foot-races the National Sport--The Tarahumares are the
Greatest Runners in the World--Divinations for the Race--Mountains of
Betting Stakes--Women's Races, Pages 276-294
CHAPTER XVI
Religion--Mother Moon Becomes the Virgin Mary--Myths--The
Creation--The Deluge--Folk-lore--The Crow's Story to the
Parrot--Brother Coyote--Beliefs about Animals, Pages 295-310
CHAPTER XVII
The Shamans or Wise Men of the Tribe--Healers and Priests in
One--Disease Caused by Looks and Thoughts--Everybody and
Everything has to be Cured--Nobody Feels Well without His
"Doctor"--Sorcery--The Powers of Evil are as Great as those of
Good--Remarkable Cure for Snake-bite--Trepanning Among the
Ancient Tarahumares, Pages 311-329
CHAPTER XVIII
Relation of Man to Nature--Dancing as a Form of Worship Learned
from the Animals--Tarahumare Sacrifices--The Rutuburi Dance Taught
by the Turkey--The Yumari Learned from the Deer--Tarahumare Rain
Songs--Greeting the Sun--Tarahumare Oratory--The Flowing
Bowl--The National Importance of Tesvino--Homeward Bound, Pages
330-355
CHAPTER XIX
Plant-worship--Hikuli--Internal and External Effects--Hikuli both Man
and God--How the Tarahumares Obtain the Plant, and where They
Keep It--The Tarahumare Hikuli Feast--Musical Instruments--Hikuli
Likes Noise--The Dance--Hikuli's Departure in the Morning--Other
Kinds of Cacti Worshipped--"Doctor" Rubio, the Great Hikuli
Expert--The Age of Hikuli Worship, Pages 356-379
CHAPTER XX
The Tarahumare's Firm Belief in a Future Life--Causes of Death--The
Dead are Mischievous and Want Their Families to Join
Them--Therefore the Dead Have to be Kept Away by Fair Means or
Foul--Three Feasts and a Chase--Burial Customs--A Funeral Sermon,
Pages 380-390
CHAPTER XXI
Three Weeks on Foot Through the Barranca--Rio Fuerte--I Get My
Camera Wet--Ancient Cave-dwellings Ascribed to the Tubar
Indians--The Effect of a Compliment--Various Devices for Catching
Fish--Poisoning the Water--A Blanket Seine, Pages 391-407
CHAPTER XXII
Resumption of the Journey Southward--_Pinus Lumholtzii_--Cooking
with Snow--Terror-stricken Indians--A Gentlemanly Highwayman and
His "Shooting-box"--The Pernicious Effect of Civilisation Upon the
Tarahumares--A Fine Specimen of the Tribe--The Last of the
Tarahumares, Pages 408-421
CHAPTER XXIII
Cerro de Muinora, the Highest Mountain in Chihuahua--The Northern
Tepehuanes--Troubles Cropping Out of the Camera--Sinister Designs
on Mexico Attributed to the Author--Maizillo--Foot-races Among the
Tepehuanes--Influence of the Mexicans Upon the Tepehunaes, and
_Vice Versa_--Profitable Liquor Traffic--Medicine Lodges--Cucuduri,
the Master of the Woods--Myth of the Pleiades, Pages 422-436
CHAPTER XXIV
On to Morelos--Wild and Broken Country--The Enormous
Flower-spike of the Amole--Subtropical Vegetation of Northwestern
Mexico--Destructive Ants--The Last of the Tubars--A Spectral
Ride--Back to the United States--An Awful Thunder-storm--Close
Quarters--Zape--Antiquities--When an "Angel" Dies--Mementos of a
Reign of Terror--The Great Tepehuane Revolution of 1616--The Fertile
Plains of Durango, Pages 437-450
CHAPTER XXV
Winter in the High Sierra--Mines--Pueblo Nuevo and Its Amiable
Padre--A Ball in My Honour--_Sancta Simplicitas_--A Fatiguing
Journey to the Pueblo of Lajas and the Southern Tepehuanes--Don't
Travel After Nightfall!--Five Days Spent in Persuading People to Pose
Before the Camera--The Regime of Old Missionary Times--Strangers
Carefully Excluded--Everybody Contemplating Marriage is
Arrested--Shocking Punishments for Making Love--Bad Effects of the
Severity of the Laws, Pages 451-470
CHAPTER XXVI
Pueblo Viejo--Three Languages Spoken Here--The Aztecs--The
Musical Bow--Theories of Its Origin--Dancing Mitote--Fasting and
Abstinence--Helping President Diaz--The Importance of Tribal
Restrictions--Principles of Monogamy--Disposition of the Dead, Pages
471-483
CHAPTER XXVII
Inexperienced Help--How to Acquire Riches from the
Mountains--Sierra del Nayarit--The Coras--Their Aversion to
"Papers"--Their Part in Mexican
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