Travels in the United States of America Commencing in the Year 1793, and Ending in 1797 | Page 5

who were _actually
arrived_; and as a just judgment on the Philadelphians for encouraging
these _children of iniquity_, they were now afflicted with the yellow
fever." I told him, that more likely the sins of the quakers had drawn
down this judgment on the city _of brotherly love_, and that it was now
scourged for their hypocrisy, lying, canting, and other manifold
iniquities.
_Oct. 27th_.--Very cold wind at N.W. In the evening snow.

_Oct. 29th_.--Favourable accounts from Philadelphia: the late cold
weather has entirely stopped the progress of the disorder.
_November 26th_.
Set out for Annapolis, and arrived there in health, the 29th, at five in
the afternoon.
* * * * *
_Annapolis, 17th December, 1793._
DEAR FRIEND,
The bay of Chesapeak is one of the largest in the world. From it's
entrance, between capes Henry and Charles, to the mouth of the
Susquana, which forms the head of the bay, the distance is two hundred
and eighty miles, through which great extent of water the tide ebbs and
flows. This bay receives into it's bosom the following rivers; viz. the
Patomac, the Rappahanock, the Patapsico, the York, the James, the
Severn, and the Elk, beside innumerable creeks, and small streams. On
an inlet from this bay, about two hundred miles from it's entrance from
the Atlantic, stands Annapolis, the capital of the state of Maryland, so
called in honour of queen Anne, as appears from the following extract
from their charter:--
"Anne, by the grace of God, queen of Great Britain, &c....
"To all, and singular, our faithful subjects within our province of
Maryland, greeting.... Whereas there is a pleasant and commodious
place for trade ... laid out for a town, and port, and called Annapolis, in
honour of us."
This city was intended for the emporium of the province; and surely no
spot ever seemed better calculated for a town of trade and commerce.
Far to the south, and in one of the most pleasant and healthy situations
in America; as the seat of government, being the greatest, and indeed
then only mercantile town in the province; the bay of Chesapeak, and

adjacent rivers, wafting the tobacco and other produce of the country to
this mart at a trifling expense; a harbour where ships might ride at
anchor in perfect security, and where wharfs, with sufficient depth of
water for a vessel of eight hundred tons, might be formed with very
little trouble: but unfortunately these advantages were rendered
abortive by the bite of a small insect; the worms are so troublesome in
these waters, that a vessel lying in this harbour during the summer
months will be as full of holes as a honey-comb. Baltimore, a town on a
similar inlet from the bay, about thirty miles hence, being free from this
plague, (by having a great proportion of fresh water from the Patapsico
in it's harbour) has drawn all the trade from the _capital_: the
Annapolians have now but one square-rigged vessel belonging to their
port, while their rivals have many hundreds, and drive a brisk trade to
the four quarters of the globe.
Annapolis is whimsically laid out, the streets verging from each other,
like rays from a centre. It is still the seat of government; and it's
state-house is by much the best building I have seen in America. This
little city is now the retreat of some of the best families in the state. The
inhabitants in general are passionately fond of theatrical entertainments,
and received us with a degree of kindness and hospitality which claims
our warmest acknowledgments. I spend my time here very agreeably.
The politeness, ease, and conviviality of the Annapolians form a strong
and pleasing contrast to the behaviour of the stiff, gloomy and unsocial
bigots I was lately surrounded with in the Jerseys. Next to Virginia, this
state was the most famous for tobacco-plantations; but the people now
find the culture of wheat more profitable, as well as less injurious to the
soil. No plant impoverishes the earth so much by it's growth as tobacco;
many plantations, owing to successive crops of this _weed_, are what is
here called _worn out_; formerly, when their land was in this state,
instead of endeavouring to bring it round by a few fallow years and
manure, as in England, they immediately cleared a fresh tract. They
now begin to use manure, and have discovered a very extraordinary
kind; viz. antediluvian oyster-shells, large beds of which are found a
few feet beneath the surface of the earth in several parts of the
state[Footnote: See Bartram's Account of a similar Bed in Georgia,
page 213.]: these being laid on the land, are, by the effect of the air,

crumbled into dust in a few days, and fertilize the earth in an
astonishing degree.--Farewell.--Conclude me
Yours