Travels in the Interior of Africa, vol 2 | Page 4

with two short black horns, turning backwards; the tail,
which reached down to the ham joint, had a tuft of hair at the end. The
animal was of a mouse colour, and it trotted away from us in a very
sluggish manner--moving its head from side to side, to see if we were
pursuing it. Shortly after this, as we were crossing a large open plain,
where there were a few scattered bushes, my guide, who was a little
way before me, wheeled his horse round in a moment, calling out
something in the Foulah language which I did not understand. I
inquired in Mandingo what he meant; "Wara billi billi!" ("A very large
lion!") said he, and made signs for me to ride away. But my horse was
too much fatigued; so we rode slowly past the bush from which the
animal had given us the alarm. Not seeing anything myself, however, I
thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly put his
hand to his mouth, exclaiming, "Soubah an allahi!" ("God preserve us!")
and, to my great surprise, I then perceived a large red lion, at a short
distance from the bush, with his head couched between his forepaws. I
expected he would instantly spring upon me, and instinctively pulled
my feet from my stirrups to throw myself on the ground, that my horse
might become the victim rather than myself. But it is probable the lion
was not hungry; for he quietly suffered us to pass, though we were
fairly within his reach. My eyes were so riveted upon this sovereign of
the beasts that I found it impossible to remove them until we were at a

considerable distance. We now took a circuitous route through some
swampy ground, to avoid any more of these disagreeable encounters.
At sunset we arrived at Modiboo--a delightful village on the banks of
the Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles both to the
east and west. The small green islands (the peaceful retreat of some
industrious Foulahs, whose cattle are here secure from the depredations
of wild beasts) and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here
much larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the most
enchanting in the world. Here are caught great plenty of fish, by means
of long cotton nets, which the natives make themselves, and use nearly
in the same manner as nets are used in Europe. I observed the head of a
crocodile lying upon one of the houses, which they told me had been
killed by the shepherds in a swamp near the town. These animals are
not uncommon in the Niger, but I believe they are not oftentimes found
dangerous. They are of little account to the traveller when compared
with the amazing swarms of mosquitoes, which rise from the swamps
and creeks in such numbers as to harass even the most torpid of the
natives; and as my clothes were now almost worn to rags, I was but ill
prepared to resist their attacks. I usually passed the night without
shutting my eyes, walking backwards and forwards, fanning myself
with my hat; their stings raised numerous blisters on my legs and arms,
which, together with the want of rest, made me very feverish and
uneasy.
July 29.--Early in the morning, my landlord, observing that I was sickly,
hurried me away, sending a servant with me as a guide to Kea. But
though I was little able to walk, my horse was still less able to carry me;
and about six miles to the east of Modiboo, in crossing some rough
clayey ground, he fell, and the united strength of the guide and myself
could not place him again upon his legs. I sat down for some time
beside this worn-out associate of my adventures, but finding him still
unable to rise, I took off the saddle and bridle, and placed a quantity of
grass before him. I surveyed the poor animal, as he lay panting on the
ground, with sympathetic emotion, for I could not suppress the sad
apprehension that I should myself, in a short time, lie down and perish
in the same manner, of fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding I left
my poor horse, and with great reluctance followed my guide on foot
along the bank of the river until about noon, when we reached Kea,

which I found to be nothing more than a small fishing village. The
dooty, a surly old man, who was sitting by the gate, received me very
coolly; and when I informed him of my situation, and begged his
protection, told me with great indifference that he paid very little
attention to fine speeches, and that I should not enter his house. My
guide remonstrated in