Travels in Morocco, Vol. 1. | Page 7

or Christian infidels, out of its Shereefian land of Marabouts,
out of its central orthodox Mussulman land of the Mugreb, as to be
accessible to ordinary notions of things, and that it would always
concede a just demand if it were rightly and vigorously pressed, and if
the religious fanaticism of its people were not involved in the
transaction. Thus far we may do justice to the government of these
Moorish princes.
This opinion, however, does not altogether coincide with that of the
late Mr. Hay. According to the report of Mr. Borrow, as found in his
work, "The Bible of Spain," the Moorish government, according to Mr.
Hay, was "one of the vilest description, with which it was next to
impossible to hold amicable relations, as it invariably acted with bad
faith, and set at nought the most solemn treaties." But, if the Maroquine
Court had acted in this most extraordinary manner, surely there would
now be no Moorish empire of Western Barbary.

CHAPTER II

.
Arrival at Tangier.--Moorish Pilgrims in Cordova.--Address of the
Anti-Slavery Society.--Mr. D. Hay, British Consul.--Institut
d'Afrique.--Conveyance of Eunuchs in vessels under the French
Flag.--Franco-Moorish Politics.--Corn Monopolies in Morocco.--Love
and veneration for the English name.--Celebration of the Ayd-Kebir,
great festival. Value of Money in Morocco.--Juvenile Strolling
Singer.--General account of the city of Tangier.--Intercourse between
the Moorish Emperor and the Foreign Consuls.--Cockney
sportsmen,--The degrading of high Moorish Functionaries.--How we
smuggle Cattle from Tangier to Gibraltar.--The Blood-letting of
plethoric Placemen.
The communication between Gibraltar and Tangier is by no means easy
and regular, though the places are only a few hours' distance from the
other. I had waited many days at Gib. (as our captain called the former
place), before the wind enabled us to leave, and then, our boat being a
small transport for cattle, and the Government contractors wanting beef
for the garrison--for an Englishman or an English soldier cannot live in
any part of the world without beef--we were compelled to leave with
the wind in our teeth, and to make a night's voyage of this four or five
hours' traverse. It might be worth while, one would think, to try a small
steam-tug for the conveyance of cattle from Tangier to our garrison,
which, besides, would be a great convenience for passengers.
On coming on deck in the morning, Tangier, "the city protected of the
Lord," appeared in all its North African lineaments, white and bright,
shining, square masses of masonry, domes of fair and modest santos,
and the heaven-pointing minarets; here and there a graceful palm, a
dark olive, or the black bushy kharoub, and all denned sharply and
clearly in the goodly prospect. But these Barbary towns had lost much
of their freshness or novelty to me, and novelty is the greatest
ingredient of our pleasure in foreign travel. I had also just travelled
through Spain, and the south of this country is still, as to its aspect, part
and parcel of Morocco, though it is severed by the Straits. In the
ancient Moorish city of Cordova, I had even saluted the turban. I met
two Moors strolling along, with halting steps and triste mien, through
the streets, whom I instinctively addressed.
"_Wein mashe. Ash tomel_. Where are you going? What are you

doing?"
The Moors (greatly pleased to hear the sound of their own
mother-tongue in the land of their pilgrimage).--"Net jerrej. We are
enjoying ourselves."
Traveller.--"What do you think of the country (Cordova)?"
The Moors.--"This is the land of our fathers."
Traveller.--"Well, what then? Are you going to possess it again?"
The Moors.--"Of what country are you?"
Traveller.--"Engleez."
The Moors (brightening up).--"That is good. Yes, we are very glad. We
thought you might be a Spaniard, or a Frenchman. Now we'll tell you
all; we don't fear. God will give us this country again, when Seedna
Aïsa [4] comes to deliver us from these curse-smitten dogs of
Spaniards." [5]
Traveller.--"Well, never mind the Spaniards. Have you seen anything
you like here?"
The Moors.--"Look at this knife; it is rusty; it should not be so."
Traveller.--"How!"
The Moors.--"We read in our books and commentators that in
Andalous (Spain) there is no rust, and that nothing rusts here." [6]
Traveller.--"Nonsense; have you seen the hundred pillars of your
mosque?" (Now converted into a cathedral.)
The Moors.--"Ah, we have seen them," with a deep sigh; "and the
pillars will stand till to-morrow." (End of the world.)
I was obliged to say farewell to these poor pilgrims, wandering in the
land of their fathers, and worshipping at the threshold of the noble
remains of Moresco-Spanish antiquity, for the diligencia was starting
off to Seville.
To return from my digression. I soon found myself at home in Tangier
amongst my old friends, the Moors, and coming from Spain, could
easily recognise many things connecting the