Through Canal-Land in a Canadian Canoe | Page 2

is said to be the reward
of an easy conscience.
The sun shining through our window in the morning got us out of bed
at an early hour, and we were soon splashing about in the sunlit waters
of the canal. A delightful dip ended, we returned to our quarters for
breakfast, and from the looks of genuine admiration expressed upon the
countenance of our landlady, I should judge that our appetites did us
full credit.
Afloat once more, we paddled by easy stages past Cassiobury House,
surrounded by a glorious well-wooded park, and then reached King's
Langley, to which an interest attached as having been the birthplace of
Edward III.
We found the scenery all along this portion of the canal typical of rural
England, the various inns by the wayside recalling the delightful types
made familiar by the brushes of Dendy Sadler and Yeend King.
We soon found to our cost that the tropical summer weather was
responsible for the presence of numerous wasps, whose attentions were
rather too pressing to be altogether pleasant. While engaged in trying to
allay the burning pains of a bad sting upon Jacky's arm, we were
advised by a rustic on the bank (whose sympathetic grins upset my
chum almost as much as the wasps) to try some clay from the
canal-side as a remedy. We were sceptical at first, but were
subsequently astonished at the soothing effects of this novel panacea
for wasp-stings. Here is a wrinkle for any of my readers who should
happen to get stung by the ferocious little pests.
At Boxmoor, where we next arrived, we observed, during a saunter
around the village, a curious stone erected to the memory of a
highwayman rejoicing in the most un-romantic name of Snooks, who
its was hanged here at the beginning of the century for robbing the
King's mail.
Paddling on farther, we passed Berkhampstead (a corruption of
Berg-ham-sted, the home on the hill), with its picturesque castle, much

in request by picnic parties, and duly arrived at Bulborn, near Tring,
and during a stroll around the latter town we observed a column erect to
commemorate the completion (in 1832) of the canal along which we
were journeying.
We stopped for the night at Bulborn, a typical bargee's village, and
after our usual morning dip proceeded on our way in good time.
As the day wore on, we got well into Buckinghamshire, and shortly
after came to Stony Stratford, remarkable in history as being the place
where the ill-fated young Edward V was seized by Richard Duke of
Gloucester.
A paddle of some length brought us to the Stoke entrance of the
well-known Blisworth Tunnel, which is a mile and a-half in length, and
forms the first of a series along the route.
Seeing one of the curious little tug-boats about to proceed through the
tunnel, we obtained permission from one of the very grimy crew to
place our canoe aboard, and, this safely accomplished, the tug puffed
and snorted up to the entrance, hitched on to a string of barges, and
with a deal of fuss and smoke entered the tunnel.
The journey through this subterranean passage was a most novel one to
us who had never been through a tunnel of this description before. The
intense darkness, only illuminated by the light from the boiler fire, was
most uncanny, while the wonderful reverberations and echoes
occurring in the tunnel quite startled us until we became used to the
situation. The roof seemed so low that we instinctively stooped our
heads to avoid getting them removed from our shoulders, an action
which caused immense amusement to the skipper, who, in the manner
of his kind, accentuated the eerie feeling of the place by spinning all
sorts of creepy yarns about canal boatmen who had mysteriously gone
overboard in the pitch dark, and never been seen again.
We drew a long breath when we emerged into the welcome blinking
daylight at the other end of the tunnel, and soon after bade good-bye to
our whilom friend the skipper.

I can imagine no place more calculated to quickly shatter the nerves
and break the health of a human being than one of those foul,
suffocating tunnels under the hills.
On this occasion we stopped for the night at Blisworth and put up at a
wayside inn possessing the curious sign of the "Sun, Moon, and Seven
Stars" (the only one in England we were told), where we met with quite
a reception, the news of our approach having gone ahead of us, we
afterwards discovered.
Before proceeding next day, we had to clear the canoe of the dirt and
rubbish collected during the passage of the tunnel. Upon this day we
passed through six locks in close succession, as well as another