broken down, and had been left behind.
M'Carthy informs me that this worthy really is a magistrate or sort of
judge in his own district; but he now appears in the capacity of assistant
mule-driver, and is to make himself generally useful. I could not help
feeling immensely amused at this specimen of a Texan judge. We
started again about 3 P.M., and soon emerged from the mosquite
bushes into an open prairie eight miles long, quite desolate, and
producing nothing but a sort of rush; after which we entered a chaparal,
or thick covert of mosquite trees and high prickly pears. These border
the track, and are covered with bits of cotton torn from the endless
trains of cotton waggons. We met several of these waggons. Generally
there were ten oxen or six mules to a waggon carrying ten bales, but in
deep sand more animals are necessary. They journey very slowly
towards Brownsville, from places in the interior of Texas at least five
hundred miles distant. Want of water and other causes make the drivers
and animals undergo much hardship.
The judge rides on in front of us on his "Rosinante," to encourage the
mules. His back view reminds one in a ludicrous manner of the pictures
of Dr Syntax.
Mr Sargent, our portly driver, cheers his animals by the continual
repetition of the sentence, "Get up, now, you great long-eared G----d
d----d son of a ----."
At 5 P.M. we reached a well, with a farm or ranch close to it. Here we
halted for the night. A cotton train was encamped close to us, and a
lugubrious half-naked teamster informed us that three of his oxen had
been stolen last night.
In order to make a fire, we were forced to enter the chaparal for wood,
and in doing so we ran many prickles into our legs, which caused us
great annoyance afterwards, as they fester, if not immediately pulled
out.
The water at this well was very salt, and made very indifferent coffee.
M'Carthy called it the "meanest halting-place we shall have."
At 8 P.M. M'Carthy spread a bullock-rug on the sand near the carriage,
on which we should have slept very comfortably, had it not been for the
prickles, the activity of many fleas, and the incursions of wild hogs. Mr
Sargent and the Judge, with much presence of mind, had encamped
seventy yards off, and left to us the duty of driving away these hogs. I
was twice awoke by one of these unclean animals breathing in my face.
We did about twenty-one miles to-day.
[6] The value of Confederate paper has since decreased. At Charleston
I was offered six to one for my gold, and at Richmond eight to one.
* * * * *
14th April (Tuesday).--When we roused up at 4 A.M. we found our
clothes saturated with the heavy dew; also that, notwithstanding our
exertions, the hogs had devoured the greatest part of our pet kid, our
only fresh meat.
After feeding our mules upon the Indian corn we had brought with us,
and drinking a little more salt-water coffee, the Judge "hitched in," and
we got under way at 5.30 A.M. The country just the same as
yesterday--a dead level of sand, mosquite trees, and prickly pears.
At 7.30 A.M. we reached "Leatham's ranch," and watered our mules.
As the water was tolerable, we refilled our water-barrels. I also washed
my face, during which operation Mr Sargent expressed great
astonishment, not unmingled with contempt.
At Leatham's we met a wealthy Texan speculator and contractor called
Major or Judge Hart.
I find that our Judge is also an M.P., and that, in his capacity as a
member of the Texan legislature, he is entitled to be styled the
Honourable ---- ----.
At 9 A.M. we halted in the middle of a prairie, on which there was a
little grass for the mules, and we prepared to eat. In the midst of our
cooking, two deer came up quite close to us, and could easily have been
killed with rifles.
We saw quantities of rat-ranches, which are big sort of mole-hills,
composed of cow-dung, sticks, and earth, built by the rats.
Mr Sargent, our conductor, is a very rough customer--a fat,
middle-aged man, who never opens his mouth without an oath, strictly
American in its character. He and the judge are always snarling at one
another, and both are much addicted to liquor.
We live principally on bacon and coffee, but as the water and the bacon
are both very salt, this is very inconvenient. We have, however, got
some claret, and plenty of brandy.
During the mid-day halts Mr Sargent is in the habit of cooling himself
by removing his trousers (or pants), and, having gorged himself, he lies
down and issues
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