Three Months in the Southern States, April-June 1863 | Page 6

masse.
The outside of the municipal hall was lit up with some splendour, and it

was graced by a big placard, on which was written the amiable
sentiment, "Muera Napoleon--viva Mejico!" Semi-successful squibs
and crackers were let off at intervals. In the square also was a triumphal
arch, with an inscription to the effect that "the effete nations of Europe
might tremble." I made great friends with the gobernador and
administrador, who endeavoured to entice me into dancing, but I
excused myself by saying that Europeans were unable to dance in the
graceful Mexican fashion. Captain Hancock was much horrified when
this greasy-faced gobernador (who keeps a small shop) stated his
intention of visiting the Immortalité with six of his friends, and
sleeping on board for a night or two.
The dances were a sort of slow valse, and between the dances the girls
were planted up against the wall, and not allowed to be spoken to by
any one. They were mostly a plain-headed, badly-painted lot, and
ridiculously dressed.
[3] Nova-Scotian.
[4] During all my travels in the South I never saw a regiment so well
clothed or so well drilled as this one, which has never been in action, or
been exposed to much hardship.
* * * * *
9th April (Thursday).--Captain Hancock and Mr Anderson left for
Bagdad in Mr Behnsen's carriage at noon.
I crossed over to Brownsville at 11.30, and dined with Colonels
Luckett, Buchel, and Duff, at about one o'clock. As we were all
colonels, and as every one called the other colonel tout court, it was
difficult to make out which was meant. They were obliged to confess
that Brownsville was about the rowdiest town of Texas, which was the
most lawless state in the Confederacy; but they declared they had never
seen an inoffensive man subjected to insult or annoyance, although the
shooting-down and stringing-up systems are much in vogue, being
almost a necessity in a thinly-populated state, much frequented by
desperadoes driven away from more civilised countries.

Colonel Luckett gave me a letter to General Van Dorn, whom they
consider the beau ideal of a cavalry soldier. They said from time
immemorial the Yankees had been despised by the Southerners, as a
race inferior to themselves in courage and in honourable sentiments.
At 3 P.M. Colonel Buchel and I rode to Colonel Duff's camp, distant
about thirteen miles. I was given a Mexican saddle, in which one is
forced to sit almost in a standing position. The stirrups are very long,
and right underneath you, which throws back the feet.
Duff's regiment is called the Partisan Rangers. Although a fine lot of
men, they don't look well at a foot parade, on account of the small
amount of drill they have undergone, and the extreme disorder of their
clothing. They are armed with carbines and six-shooters.
I saw some men come in from a scouting expedition against the Indians,
300 miles off. They told me they were usually in the habit of scalping
an Indian when they caught him, and that they never spared one, as
they were such an untamable and ferocious race. Another habit which
they have learned from the Indians is, to squat on their heels in a most
peculiar manner. It has an absurd and extraordinary effect to see a
quantity of them so squatting in a row or in a circle.
The regiment had been employed in quelling a counter revolution of
Unionists in Texas. Nothing could exceed the rancour with which they
spoke of these renegadoes, as they called them, who were principally
Germans.
When I suggested to some of the Texans that they might as well bury
the body of Mongomery a little better, they did not at all agree with me,
but said it ought not to have been buried at all, but left hanging as a
warning to other evil-doers.
With regard to the contentment of their slaves, Colonel Duff pointed
out a good number they had with them, who had only to cross the river
for freedom if they wished it.
Colonel Buchel and I slept in Colonel Duff's tent, and at night we were

serenaded. The officers and men really sang uncommonly well, and
they finished with "God save the Queen!"
Colonel Duff comes from Perth. He was one of the leading characters
in the secession of Texas; and he said his brother was a banker in
Dunkeld.
* * * * *
10th April (Friday).--We roused up at daylight, and soon afterwards
Colonel Duff paraded some of his best men, to show off the Texan
horsemanship, of which they are very proud. I saw them lasso cattle,
and catch them by the tail at full gallop, and throw them by slewing
them round. This is called tailing. They pick small objects