Theory of Silk Weaving | Page 4

are evenly balanced, and unevensided if either warp or filling predominate on the face of the fabric; the latter class is therefore subdivided in Warp effects and Filling effects.
In the following a number of serge weaves are illustrated, the French designations being added in some cases, as they are still extensively used in the trade.
[Page 21] * * * * *
FILLING EFFECTS
_Satin de Lyon,_ 2-1.
On 6 harness straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 20]
* * * *
_Levantine,_ 3-1
On 8 shafts skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 21]
* * * *
[Page 22] _Polonaise,_ 5-1
On 12 harness skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 22]
* * * *
_Serge grosse c?te,_ 7-1
On 8 shafts straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 23]
* * * *
[Page 23] _Serge remaine,_ 6-2
On 8 shafts skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 24]
* * * *
_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
On 8 shafts skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 25]
* * * *
[Page 24] _Serge,_ 4-2, 1-1, 1-1.
On 10 harness straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 26]
* * * *
_Serge,_ 7-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1.
On 16 shafts skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 27]
* * * * *
[Page 25] WARP EFFECTS
_Levantine,_ 3-1.
On 4 shafts straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 28]
* * * *
_Serge,_ 5-1, 1-1.
On 8 shafts skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 29]
* * * * *
[Page 26] EVENSIDED TWILLS
_Surah,_ 2-2
On 4 shafts straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 30]
* * * *
_Croise,_ 3-3, 2-2, 1-1.
On 12 shafts straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 31]
* * * *
[Page 27] _Serge,_ 7-7, 1-1, 1-1, 1-1
On 20 shafts skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 32]
* * * * *
POINTED TWILLS
in the direction of the filling and also of the warp.
[Illustration: Fig. 33]
On 4 shafts point draw, weave 3-1.
* * * *
[Page 28] [Illustration: Fig. 34]
On 6 shafts point draw, drawn as follows:
Eighteen ends from back to front and 4 ends from front to rear, weave 5-1.
* * * *
[Illustration: Fig. 35]
On 8 shafts pointed draw, weave 5-1, 1-1.
* * * *
[Page 29] [Illustration: Fig. 36]
On 10 shafts, with weave 3-3, drawn as follows:
7 threads from back to front. 3 " " front to rear. 6 " " back to front. 2 " " front to rear.
* * * *
[Illustration: Fig. 37]
On 6 shafts straight draw, pointed weave 5-1.
* * * *
[Page 30] [Illustration: Fig. 38]
On 8 shafts straight through, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
* * * *
[Illustration: Fig. 39]
_Broken pointed twill_, on 8 harness.
* * * *
[Page 31] [Illustration: Fig. 40]
On 6 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1.
* * * *
[Illustration: Fig. 41]
On 8 shafts point draw, pointed weave 5-1, 1-1.
* * * *
[Page 32] [Illustration: Fig. 42]
_Fancy twill_, on 16 shafts straight draw.
* * * * *
SATIN WEAVES
The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and while the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive order, we endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as much as possible, in order to create an entirely smooth and brilliant surface on [Page 33] the cloth.
In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and filling.
The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each system, and the interlacing is done in the following order:
The 1st pick with the 1st warp-thread " 2d " " 3d " " 3d " " 5th " " 4th " " 2d " " 5th " " 4th "
Fig. 43 illustrates this weave. An examination of the rotation, as given above, will show that every warp-thread intersects two picks apart from its neighbor. The number "2" is in this case what is technically known as the _counter_, that is the number which indicates the points of interlacing by adding it to number 1 and continuing so until all the warp-threads are taken up.
The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular satin:
Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be equal nor have a common divisor. Any of these two numbers can be used for counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken. According to this rule we obtain a regular satin
On 5 harness with counter 2 " 7 " " 2 or 3 " 8 " " 3 " 9 " " 2 or 4 " 10 " " 3 " 11 " " 2, 3, 4 or 5 " 12 " " 5 " 13 " " 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 " 14 " " 3 or 5 " 15 " " 2, 4 or 7 " 16 " " 3, 5 or 7.
[Page 34] The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. 53, is sometimes classed among the satins.
The 6 harness satin, Fig. 54, is irregular; as a counter cannot be derived from number 6 by the given rule. The rotation generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4, 2, 5.
* * * * *
Regular Satins
_5 harness Satin, "Satin de Chine."_
Straight draw, counter 2.
[Illustration: Fig. 43]
* * * *
_7 harness Satin, "Satin Merveilleux."_
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