Theory of Silk Weaving

薚Theory of Silk Weaving

Project Gutenberg's Theory Of Silk Weaving, by Arnold Wolfensberger This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net
Title: Theory Of Silk Weaving
Author: Arnold Wolfensberger
Release Date: January 5, 2005 [EBook #14600]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
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[Page 1] THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
[Page 3] THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics
Containing 95 Plates
By ARNOLD WOLFENSBERGER
Graduate of the Textile Institute of Zurich, Switzerland
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Second Revised and Enlarged Edition
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NEW YORK
Issued by THE AMERICAN SILK JOURNAL
CLIFFORD & LAWTON
Publishers _1921_
[Page 4] * * * * *
COPYRIGHT. 1921. by CLIFFORD & LAWTON
All rights reserved * * * * *
GROLIER CRAFT PRESS, Printers. 229 West Twenty-eighth Street, New York City
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[Page 5] PREFACE
The silk industry of America has of late years rapidly advanced to the front rank among the great textile industries of the world. It may indeed be proud of this position, to which that enterprising spirit and untiring energy peculiar to our nation, combined with our great technical and natural resources, has brought it.
That we are, on the other hand, not yet at the height of perfection we are also compelled to acknowledge, but if we consider the short space of time that the American industry has required for its development, as compared to the decades, almost centuries, to which some of the great European silk centers can look back, the fact is neither surprising nor discouraging.
While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch as out conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we may still profitably study their methods in order to overcome our deficiencies.
The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful, trained help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this factor, make great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and maintain the high standard of their industry.
For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where young men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves for a career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at the same time furthering those of their chosen profession.
[Page 6] This beneficial influence cannot fail to exert itself from the standard of the higher employer down to that of the weaver, who would naturally take more pains and interest in his work than if he were a mere mechanical appendage to his loom in order to keep it in motion.
Very little has been done in his country for technical education as far as the silk industry is concerned, and it was on this special branch, that prompted the author to offer in the present little work a treatise on the theory of shaft weaving for broad silks and ribbons.
It is divided into three principal parts:
#1st. Drawing-in the warp in the harness. 2nd. The weaves and their application. 3rd. Decomposition or analysis of the cloth.#
To the foregoing there have been added in the revised and enlarged edition several additional parts covering the following: JACQUARD WEAVES, BOX LOOM WEAVES, including CREPES, and COST CALCULATIONS for plain and fancy weaves.
The subject while condensed, is made as clear and comprehensible as possible, and to many desirous of increasing their knowledge in this direction, this should prove a valuable help.
The author, through the medium of this work, hopes to win the approval and encouragement of the manufacturers, and will feel amply repaid should his efforts tend to develop a deeper interest in the "Queen of Textiles."
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[Page 7] THEORY OF SILK WEAVING
DRAWING-IN
With this term we designate the operation preceding the weaving, by which all the warp-threads are drawn through the heddles of the harness.
The order in which this is done varies according to the weave and the nature of the fabric to be produced; so we distinguish:
#Straight draws, Skip draws, Point draws, Section draws.#
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STRAIGHT DRAWS
[Illustration: Fig. 1]
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[Page 8] [Illustration: Fig. 2]
These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin with the first heddle on the left side of the shaft _nearest to the warp-beam_, then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until all the shafts the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one "draw," and this operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are taken up.
The method of making the shaft