Theory of Silk Weaving | Page 9

foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a piece of the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine the exact figure at which he can produce the article. That this must be done with great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the calculator [Page 73] must know in the first place the raw stock prices, and also be acquainted with the details of the manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid therein. As a rule, the manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering all the items of labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis for his calculations.
A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.
[Page 75] DISPOSITION 1
_Taffeta glac��_
[Illustration: Fig. 89]
[Page 76] #Length and Width#--One piece 100 yards long, 18? inches wide.
#Stock and Dye#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams, brown, bright, 14/16 oz. _Filling._--Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams, gold, bright 14/16 oz.
#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 70 dents at 3 single ends. " 18? " 1313 " add 13 " = 1% for shrinkage ---- Total 1326 dents.
#Drawing in#--1st edge, 9 dents at 3 double ends. Ground, 1308 " at 3 single " 2d edge, 9 " at 3 double " on 6 shafts, straight through.
#Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 27 double ends, brown. Ground, 3924 single " " 2d edge, 27 double " " ---- Total 4032 single ends. Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.
#Harness#--6 shafts, 3978 heddles per 19 inches. 1 " 35 " " 1 "
#Reduction of Filling#--Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs = 4032 ends. 1 end = 110 yards. 1000 yards = 1,47 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 104 (4% waste).
4032��110��1,47��104 ------------------- = 2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz. 1000��256��100
[Page 77] #Filling Calculation#--? lbs. = 100 yards 1 yard = 36 inches. 1 inch = 102 \ picks. 2 / ends. 1 pick = 19 inches. 36 inches = 1 yard 1000 yards = 1,65 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 108 (8% waste).
100��36��102��2��19��165��108 ------------------------- = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs. 36��1000��256��100
* * * *
[Page 79] DISPOSITION 2
_Surah 3-1_
[Illustration: Fig. 90]
[Page 80] #Length and Width#--1 piece 50 yards long, 23? in. wide.
#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers, black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs. _Filling._--Cotton No. 120/2 black.
#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 80 dents at 2 single ends. " 23? inch, 1880 " add 36 " = 2% for shrinkage. ---- Total 1916 dents.
#Drawing-in#--1st edge, 8 dents, 2 double ends. Ground, 1900 " 2 single " 2d edge, 8 " 2 double " on 4 shafts, straight draw.
#Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 16 double ends, black. Ground, 3800 single " " 2d edge, 16 double " " ---- Total 3864 single ends. Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.
#Harness#--4 shafts, 3832 heddles per 24 inches. 1 " 40 " " 1 "
#Reduction of Filling#--Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.
#Warp Calculation#--? lbs. = 4264 ends. 1 end = 54 yards. 1000 yards = 1,30 drams. 256 drams = 1 lb. 100 = 104 (4% waste).
3864��54��1,30��104 ------------------ = 1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz. 1000��256��100
[Page 81] #Filling Calculation#-?lbs. = 50 yards. 1 yard = 36 inches. 1 inch = 120 picks. 1 pick = 24 inches. 36 inches = 1 yard 840 yards = 1 skein. (No. 120/2) 60 skeins = 1 lb. 100 = 110 (10% waste).
50��36��120��24��110 ------------------ = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs. 36��840��60��100
* * * *
[Page 83] #DISPOSITION 3#
_Satin Duchesse._
[Illustration: Fig. 91]
[Page 84] #Length and Width#--One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards 23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.
#Stock and Dyeing#--_Warp._-- Ital. Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black, bright, 20/22 oz. _Filling._-- Jap. Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10 drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.
We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10 drams, but as we have none of this size on hand, we take: 1 end, 2 thread, 1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.
#Reed Calculation#--1 inch, 66 dents, 4 single ends. 46 " 3036 " 54 " (1?% shrinkage). ---- Total ... 3090 dents.
#Drawing-in#-- { 1st edge, { 2 dents, 6��2, black. { 13 " 4��2, white. Ground, 1514 " 4��1, black.
{ 2 " 6��2 " Cut Edge { 1 " 2��4, " { 3 " empty. { 1 " 2��4, "
Ground, 1514 " 4��1, black.
2d edge, { 2 " 6��2, black. { 13 " 4��2, white.
Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw. Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.
#Warping Ticket#-- Edge, { 12/2 black. } { 52/2 white. } Ground, 6056/1 black. } twice over. Edge, { 52/2