The Thames Valley Catastrophe
Grant Allen
It can scarcely be necessary for me to mention, I suppose, at this time
of day, that I was one of the earliest and fullest observers of the sad
series of events which finally brought about the transference of the seat
of Government of these islands from London to Manchester. Nor need I
allude here to the conspicuous position which my narrative naturally
occupies in the Blue-book on the Thames Valley Catastrophe (vol. ii.,
part vii), ordered by Parliament in its preliminary Session under the
new regime at Birmingham. But I think it also incumbent upon me, for
the benefit of posterity, to supplement that necessarily dry and formal
statement by a more circumstantial account of my personal adventures
during the terrible period.
I am aware, of course, that my poor little story can possess little interest
for our contemporaries, wearied out as they are with details of the
disaster, and surfeited with tedious scientific discussions as to its origin
and nature. But in after years, I venture to believe, when the crowning
calamity of the nineteenth century has grown picturesque and, so to
speak, ivy-clad, by reason of its remoteness (like the Great Plague or
the Great Fire of London with ourselves), the world may possibly
desire to hear how this unparalleled convulsion affected the feelings
and fortunes of a single family in the middle rank of life, and in a part
of London neither squalid nor fashionable.
It is such personal touches of human nature that give reality to history,
which without them must become, as a great writer has finely said,
nothing more than an old almanac. I shall not apologize, therefore, for
being frankly egoistic and domestic in my reminiscences of that
appalling day: for I know that those who desire to seek scientific
information on the subject will look for it, not in vain, in the eight
bulky volumes of the recent Blue-book. I shall concern myself here
with the great event merely as it appeared to myself, a Government
servant of the second grade, and in its relations to my own wife, my
home, and my children.
On the morning of the 21st of August, in the memorable year of the
calamity, I happened to be at Cookham, a pleasant and pretty village
which then occupied the western bank of the Thames just below the
spot where the Look-out Tower of the Earthquake and Eruption
Department now dominates the whole wide plain of the Glassy Rock
Desert. In place of the black lake of basalt which young people see
nowadays winding its solid bays in and out among the grassy downs,
most men still living can well remember a gracious and smiling valley,
threaded in the midst by a beautiful river.
I had cycled down from London the evening before (thus forestalling
my holiday), and had spent the night at a tolerable inn in the village. By
a curious coincidence, the only other visitor at the little hotel that night
was a fellow-cyclist, an American, George W. Ward by name, who had
come over with his "wheel," as he called it, for six weeks in England, in
order to investigate the geology of our southern counties for himself,
and to compare it with that of the far western cretaceous system. I
venture to describe this as a curious coincidence, because, as it
happened, the mere accident of my meeting him gave me my first
inkling of the very existence of that singular phenomenon of which we
were all so soon to receive a startling example. I had never so much as
heard before of fissure-eruptions; and if I had not heard of them from
Ward that evening, I might not have recognised at sight the actuality
when it first appeared, and therefore I might have been involved in the
general disaster. In which case, of course, this unpretentious narrative
would never have been written.
As we sat in the little parlour of the White Hart, however, over our
evening pipe, it chanced that the American, who was a pleasant,
conversable fellow, began talking to me of his reasons for visiting
England. I was at that time a clerk in the General Post Office (of which
I am now secretary), and was then no student of science; but his
enthusiastic talk about his own country and its vastness amused and
interested me. He had been employed for some years on the Geological
Survey in the Western States, and he was deeply impressed by the
solemnity and the colossal scale of everything American. "Mountains!"
he said, when I spoke of Scotland; "why, for mountains, your Alps
aren't in it!1, and as for volcanoes, your Vesuviuses and Etnas just spit
fire a bit at infrequent intervals; while ours do things on a
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