The Stranger in France | Page 8

likenesses in general are, I leave to the judgment of
others, after I have informed them, that the hazle eyes of my friend
were described "yeux bleu" in this masterly delineation.
If the dead march in Saul had been playing before us all the way, we
could not have marched more gravely, or rather sulkily, to our inn.
Before us, we had the heavy prospect of spending about ten days in this
town, not very celebrated for either beauty, or cleanliness, until the
municipality could receive an account of us, from our embassador, who
knew no more of us than they did. The other english gentlemen were in
the same predicament.
However we determined to pursue the old adage, that what is without
remedy, should be without regret, and, english like, grew very merry
over a good dinner, consisting of soups, and meat, and fowls, and fish,
and vegetables (for such is the order of a french dinner) confectionary
and a desert, accompanied with good Burgundy, and excellent
Champaign. Our misfortunes must plead our excuse, if the dinner is
considered extravagant. Uncle Toby went to sleep when he was
unhappy; we solicited consolation in another way. Our signalements
afforded us much diversion, which at length was a little augmented by
a plan which I mentioned, as likely to furnish us with the means of our
liberation. After dinner I waited upon a young gentleman who was
under the care of a very respectable merchant, to whom I had the good
fortune to have letters of introduction. Through his means I was
introduced to Mons. de la M----, who received me with great politeness.
In the hurry and occupations of very extensive commercial pursuits,
this amiable old gentleman had found leisure to indulge himself in
works of taste. His noble fortune enabled him to gratify his liberal
inclinations. I found him seated in his compting-house, which, from its
handsome furniture and valuable paintings, resembled an elegant
cabinet. I stated the conduct of the municipality towards us, and
requested his assistance. After he had shown me his apartments, a fine
collection of drawings, by some of the first masters, and some more
excellent paintings, we parted, with an assurance that he would
immediately wait upon the mayor, who was his friend, and had no
doubt but that he should in the course of the next day enable us to leave

Havre when and in what manner we pleased. With this agreeable piece
of intelligence, I immediately returned to the inn, where it induced us to
drink health and success to the friendly merchant in another bottle of
champaign.
CHAPTER III.
Passports procured.--Coins.--Town of
Havre.--Carts.--Citoyen.--Honfleur.--Deserters.--Prefect de
Marine.--Ville de Sandwich.--French Farmers.--Sir Sydney
Smith.--Catherine de Medicis.--Light Houses.--Rafts.
If Havre had been a Paradise, the feelings of restraint would have
discoloured the magic scenery, and turned the green to one barren
brown.
As we could relish nothing, until we had procured our release, the first
place we visited the next morning was, once more, the residence of the
municipality, where we found that our worthy friend had previously
arranged every thing to our wishes, and upon his signing a certificate,
that we were peaceable citizens, and had no intention to overturn the
republic, our passports were made out, and upon an exchange of a little
snuff, and a few bows, we retired. The other two englishmen had their
wishes gratified, by the same lucky incident, which had assisted us.
Having changed our guineas for french money, and as in future, when
money is mentioned, it will be in the currency of the country, it perhaps
may not be unacceptable to subjoin a table of the old, and new, and
republican coins. For every guinea of full weight, which we carried
over, we received twenty-four livres, or a louis d'or, which is equal to
twenty shillings sterling, of course we lost one shilling upon every
good guinea, and more, according to the deficiency of weight. The
course of exchange and commission, with our country, I afterwards
found at Paris, to be one shilling and eight pence, in the pound sterling,
against us, but the difference will be progressively nearer par, as the
accustomed relations of commerce resume their former habits. I was
surprised to find the ancient monarchical coin in chief circulation, and
that of the republic, very confined. Scarce a pecuniary transaction can

occur, but the silent, and eloquent medallion of the unhappy monarch,
seems to remind these bewildered people of his fate, and their past
misfortunes. Although the country is poor, all their payments are made
in cash, this is owing to the shock given by the revolution, to individual,
and consequently to paper credit.
To comprehend their money, it must be known, although the french
always calculate by livres, as we do by pounds sterling, that