The New England Magazine, Volume 1, No. 1, January 1886 | Page 9

peninsula of Nahant on the other. Between Lynn and Salem lies a rocky
and sterile tract, to this day almost without an inhabitant, but not
without its picturesque and beautiful spots, like that for instance about
the little pond, which is crossed by the floating bridge, through the
cracks of whose rude floor the water spouts in miniature geysers as the
carriage rolls across.
Near by is the region where the famous witchcraft delusion took its rise;
but reminiscences of this cruel drama are cut short by the abrupt
transition to the closely-built streets of Salem, where our friends soon
find themselves moving on through Essex Street, passing the East India
Marine Hall, containing the contributions of Salem's numerous
merchants and mariners, passing also the White mansion, a few years
later to be the scene of a foul murder, in the investigation of which Mr.
Webster was to make one of his most eloquent pleas, thence by the
well-known Common and through the long avenue to Beverly bridge,
over which they pass to the ancient town of Beverly, and are launched
on that most delightful seashore road, which, continuing on through
Manchester and Gloucester and round Cape Ann, has been pronounced
the loveliest in New England.
Soon the Beverly Farms, and then Manchester, are reached,--both
places known to-day as the summer residences of some of Boston's best
citizens, whose comfortable and elegant homes are reared upon every
commanding spot.

Next, after Manchester, the environs of Gloucester,--Kettle Cove, now
rejoicing in the more pleasing name of "Magnolia," taken from the
swamp near by, where grow those fragrant flowers whose creamy
petals, set off by dark-green leaves, are popularly supposed to scent the
air for miles around,--a race of strangers whose translation from the
sunny South to this northern clime is one of the wonders of the region.
After Magnolia, they ride through the pleasant woods to Fresh Water
Cove, passing Rafe's Chasm and Norman's Woe Rock. Now the
extreme end of Eastern Point, stretching away to the right and forming
the outer part of Gloucester Harbor, appears in sight; but it is not till the
top of Sawyer's Hill is reached that our friends, gaining a full view of
the wide-spread panorama, call a halt to enjoy its varied beauties.
Right before them appears the rocky point on which Roger Conant's
colony of 1623, the first of the cape and the oldest after Plymouth and
Boston, held its brief sway; farther on, Ten-Pound Island with its
light-house; then the village of Gloucester, the old fort, the still older
wind-mill, both prominent objects; and in the distance the twin
lighthouses of Thatcher's Island, with Railcut Hill to the north-east, and,
stretching to the north, the low, marshy level through which Squam
River meanders to the sea by the sands of Coffin's Beach.
Under any circumstances this panorama would have challenged the
admiration of our friends; but seen, as they saw it, on a clear summer
day, with the wide expanse of blue water breaking under the influence
of a gentle breeze into curling waves, which with gathering force
dashed playfully upon the yellow ledges and shining beaches, with
flocks of sea-gulls sweeping in graceful circles or brooding upon the
surface, no ordinary description could do it justice.
The fair peninsula of Cape Ann, a large part of which now lay before
them, called by the Indians "Wingershaek," has since been thrice
named. By Samuel de Champlain, who visited in it in 1605, it was
called Cap aux Isles, the islands being those now known as
Straitsmouth Island, Thatcher's Island, and Milk Island. By Captain
John Smith, who landed upon its rocky shores in 1614, it was named
Tragabigzanda, and the same islands were called The Three Turks'

Heads; and by Prince Charles, who, after Smith's return to England,
gave it the name of Cape Ann, in honor of his mother, Queen Ann,
consort of James the First.
The colony of Roger Conant was afterward transferred to Salem; but
within the next ten years a permanent settlement was made, which in
1642 was incorporated under the name of Gloucester, in honor of the
ancient city of that name in England.
From the first, Cape Ann has been the home of fishermen, though a
considerable foreign commerce was at one time carried on by its thrifty
mariners. Eminently patriotic, the town bore its share in the country's
struggle for independence, two companies of Gloucester men having
fought at Bunker's Hill, and its bold privateers did good service upon
the ocean, not only in the Revolution, but in the later struggle with the
mother country.
Our travellers, having satisfied their curiosity as to the general
appearance of the town, are getting under way again for a nearer
acquaintance, and becoming more and more interested in the special