The Man-Eaters of Tsavo | Page 6

this "desert," but almost the only difference to be noticed in the

character of the country was that the colour of the dust had changed. As
our train sped onwards through the level uplands we saw a fine ostrich
striding along parallel with the line, as if having a race with us. Dr.
McCulloch at once seized his rifle and by a lucky shot brought down
the huge bird; the next and greater difficulty, however, was to secure
the prize. For a time the engine-driver took no notice of our signals and
shouts, but at last we succeeded in attracting his attention, and the train
was shunted back to where the ostrich had fallen. We found it to be an
exceptionally fine specimen, and had to exert all our strength to drag it
on board the train.
Soon after this we reached Voi, about a hundred miles from the coast,
and as this was the most important station on the line that we had yet
come to, we made a short halt in order to inspect some construction
work which was going on. On resuming our journey, we soon
discovered that a pleasant change had occurred in the character of the
landscape. From a place called N'dii, the railway runs for some miles
through a beautifully wooded country, which looked all the more
inviting after the deadly monotony of the wilderness through which we
had just passed. To the south of us could be seen the N'dii range of
mountains, the dwelling-place of the Wa Taita people, while on our
right rose the rigid brow of the N'dungu Escarpment, which stretches
away westwards for scores of miles. Here our journey was slow, as
every now and again we stopped to inspect the permanent works in
progress; but eventually, towards dusk, we arrived at our destination,
Tsavo. I slept that night in a little palm hut which had been built by
some previous traveller, and which was fortunately unoccupied for the
time being. It was rather broken-down and dilapidated, not even
possessing a door, and as I lay on my narrow camp bed I could see the
stars twinkling through the roof. I little knew then what adventures
awaited me in this neighbourhood; and if I had realised that at that very
time two savage brutes were prowling round, seeking whom they might
devour, I hardly think I should have slept so peacefully in my rickety
shelter.
Next morning I was up betimes, eager to make acquaintance with my
new surroundings. My first impression on coming out of my hut was

that I was hemmed in on all sides by a dense growth of impenetrable
jungle: and on scrambling to the top of a little hill close at hand, I found
that the whole country as far as I could see was covered with low,
stunted trees, thick undergrowth and "wait-a-bit" thorns. The only
clearing, indeed, appeared to be where the narrow track for the railway
had been cut. This interminable nyika, or wilderness of whitish and
leafless dwarf trees, presented a ghastly and sun-stricken appearance;
and here and there a ridge of dark-red heat-blistered rock jutted out
above the jungle, and added by its rugged barrenness to the dreariness
of the picture. Away to the north-east stretched the unbroken line of the
N'dungu Escarpment, while far off to the south I could just catch a
glimpse of the snow-capped top of towering Kilima N'jaro. The one
redeeming feature of the neighbourhood was the river from which
Tsavo takes its name. This is a swiftly-flowing stream, always cool and
always running, the latter being an exceptional attribute in this part of
East Africa; and the fringe of lofty green trees along its banks formed a
welcome relief to the general monotony of the landscape.
When I had thus obtained a rough idea of the neighbourhood, I returned
to my hut, and began in earnest to make preparations for my stay in this
out-of-the-way place. The stores were unpacked, and my "boys"
pitched my tent in a little clearing close to where I had slept the night
before and not far from the main camp of the workmen. Railhead had at
this time just reached the western side of the river, and some thousands
of Indian coolies and other workmen were encamped there. As the line
had to be pushed on with all speed, a diversion had been made and the
river crossed by means of a temporary bridge. My principal work was
to erect the permanent structure, and to complete all the other works for
a distance of thirty miles on each side of Tsavo. I accordingly made a
survey of what had to be done, and sent my requisition for labour, tools
and material to the head-quarters at Kilindini. In a short