The Land of Midian, vol 1 | Page 2

the identification of certain
ruined cities mentioned by Ptolemy, and the "Harrahs" or plutonic
centres scattered over the seaboard and the interior. I venture to solicit
the attention of experts for my notes on El-Harrah, that great volcanic
chain whose fair proportions have been so much mutilated by its only
explorer, the late Dr. Wallin. Beginning with Damascan Trachonitis,
and situated, in the parallel of north lat. 28 degrees, about sixty direct
miles east of the Red Sea, it is reported to subtend the whole coast of
North-Western Arabia, between El-Muwaylah (north lat. 27 degrees 39')
and El-Yambu' (north lat. 24 degrees 5'). Equally noticeable are the
items of information concerning the Wady Hamz, the "Land's End" of
Egypt, and the most important feature of its kind in North-Western
Arabia. Its name, wrongly given by Wallin, is unknown to the
Hydrographic Chart, and to the erudite pages of my friend Professor
Aloys Sprenger, who, however, suspects with me that it may be the
mouth of the celebrated Wady el-Kura. For further topographical
details the reader is referred to the "Itineraries" of the Expedition,
offered to the Royal Geographical Society of London.
Some of the principal sites were astronomically determined by
Commanders Ahmed Musallam and Nasir Ahmed, of the Egyptian
navy. The task of mapping and planning was committed to the two
young Staff-lieutenants sent for that purpose. They worked well in the
field; and their sketches were carefully executed whilst under my

superintendence. But it was different when they returned to Cairo. The
maps sent to the little Exposition at the Hippo-drome (see conclusion)
were simply a disgrace to the Staff-bureau. My departure from Egypt
caused delay; and, when the chart reached me, it was far from
satisfactory: names had been omitted, and without my presence it could
not have been printed. With the able assistance of Mr. William J.
Turner, of the Royal Geographical Society, who found the work harder
than he expected, it has been reduced to tolerable shape. Still, it is
purely provisional; and, when mining operations shall begin, a far more
careful survey will be required.
As regards archaeology, the second Expedition visited, described, and
surveyed eighteen ruins of cities and towns, some of considerable
extent, in North Midian, besides seeing or hearing of some twenty large
Mashghal, apparently the ateliers of vagrant Gypsy-like gangs. This
total of thirty-eight is not far short of the forty traditional Midianite
settlements preserved by the mediaeval Arab geographers. Many others
are reported to exist in the central or inland region; and fifteen were
added by the South Country, including the classical temple or shrine,
found upon the bank of the Wady Hamz before mentioned. The most
interesting sites were recommended to M. Lacaze, whose portfolio was
soon filled with about two hundred illustrations, in oil and
water-colours, pencil croquis and "sun-pictures." All, except the six
coloured illustrations which adorn this volume, have been left in Egypt.
His Highness resolved to embody the results of our joint labours in a
large album, illustrated with coloured lithographs, maps, and plans,
explained by letter-press, and prepared at the Citadel, Cairo.
The Meteorological Journal was kept by myself, assisted at times by
Mr. Clarke. Mr. David Duguid, engineer of the Mukhbir, whose gallant
conduct will be recorded (Chap. VIII.), and Commander Nasir Ahmed,
of the Sinnar, obliged me by registering simultaneous observations at
sea-level. The whole was reduced to shape by Mr. W. J. Turner, of the
Royal Geographical Society.
My private collection of mineralogical specimens was deposited with
Professor M. H. N. Story-Maskelyne. The spirit-specimens of zoology

filled three large canisters: and the British Museum also received a hare
and five birds (Mr. R. B. Sharpe); four bats (Rhinopoma) and a mouse;
six reptiles, five fishes, thirty-five crustaceans, and about the same
number of insects; five scorpions, six leeches, sixty molluscs, four
echinoderms, and three sponges. Dr. A. Gunther (Appendix III.)
determined and named two new species of reptiles. Mr. Frederick
Smith (Appendix III.) took charge of the insects. Mr. Edward J. Miers,
F. L.S., etc., described the small collection of crustaceae (Annals and
Magazine of Natural History for November, 1878). Finally, Edgar A.
Smith examined and named the shells collected on the shores of the
'Akabah Gulf and the north-eastern recess of the Red Sea.
The main interest of the little hortus siccus was the Alpine Flora,
gathered at an altitude of five thousand feet above sea-level. The plants
were offered to Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker, of Kew; and Professor D.
Oliver, of the Herbarium, has kindly furnished me with a list of the
names (Appendix IV.). Mr. William Carruthers and his staff also
examined the spirit-specimens of fleshy plants (Appendix IV.).
Mr. Reginald Stuart Poole, Keeper of Coins and Medals, and Mr.
Barclay V. Head were good enough to compare with their