The Knickerbocker | Page 7

covers the greater part of the mountain's sides and base!
Our purpose was to see the sun rise from the summit of Ætna; and at
nine in the evening, our mules and guides being ready, we put on our
Sicilian capotes, and sallied forth. We had two guides, a muleteer, and
as there was no moon, a man with a lantern to light the mules in their
passage over the beds of lava. For several miles the way was
uninteresting, it being too dark to see any thing except the horrid lava
or sand beneath the feet of the mules. At times the road was so steep
that we were ordered by our guides to lean forward on the necks of the
mules, to keep them and ourselves from being thrown back. At length
we entered the woody region. Here the path was less rocky; and as we
wound up the mountain's side, beneath the shadows of noble trees, I
could not but feel the solemn quietness of a night on Ætna, and contrast
it with what has been and what will in all probability be again, the
intermitting roar of the neighboring volcano, and the dreadful thunder
of the earthquake. At midnight we arrived at the Casa delle Neve, or
House of Snow. This is a rude building of lava, with bare walls,
entirely destitute of furniture. We made a fire on the ground, took some
refreshments which we had brought with us, and in about an hour
remounted our mules, and proceeded on our journey. We soon left the
region of woods; and being now at an elevation of seven thousand feet

above the sea, felt somewhat cold, and buttoned our capotes closer
about us. From the ridges of lava along which we rode, by the light of
the stars which now became brilliant, we could discern the snow
stretching in long lines down the ravines on either hand; and as we
advanced, approaching nearer and nearer, until at length it spread in
broad fields before us. As the mules could go no farther, we
dismounted, and taking an iron-pointed staff in our hands, we
commenced the journey over the snows. It was now half-past one, and
we had seven miles to traverse before reaching the summit. The first
part of the ascent was discouraging, for it was steep, and the snow so
slippery that we sometimes fell on our faces; but it became rather less
steep as we ascended, and though fatiguing, we got along comfortably.
As the atmosphere was becoming rare, and the breathing hurried, we
sat on the snow for a few minutes now and then. At such times we
could not but be struck with the splendor of the stars, far beyond any
thing I had ever seen. The milky way seemed suspended in the deep
heavens, like a luminous cloud, with clear and definite outline. We next
arrived at the Casa degli Inglese; so called, but alas for us! the ridge of
the roof and a part of the gable were all that rose above the snow. In the
midst of summer, travellers may make use of it; but to us it was
unavailing, except the gable, which served in a measure to shield us
from the icy wind which now swept over the mountain. We again
partook of a little refreshment, by way of preparation for the most
arduous part of our undertaking, and were now at the foot of the great
cone. The ascent was toilsome in the extreme. Snow, melted beneath in
many places by the heat of the mountain; sharp ridges of lava; loose
sand, ashes, and cinders, into which last the foot sank at every step,
made the ascent difficult as well as dangerous. The atmosphere was so
rare that we had to stop every few yards to breathe. At such times we
could hear our hearts beat within us like the strokes of a drum. But it
was now light, and we reached the summit of the great cone just as the
sun rose.
It was a glorious sight which spread before our eyes! We took a hasty
glance into the gloomy crater of the volcano and throwing ourselves on
the warm ashes, gazed in wonder and astonishment. It would be vain
for me to attempt a description of the scene. I scarcely knew the world

in which I had lived. The hills and valleys over which we had been
travelling for many days, were comprised within the compass of a
momentary glance. Sicily lay at our feet, with all its 'many folded'
mountains, its plains, its promontories, and its bays; and round all, the
sea stretched far and wide like a lower sky; the Lipari islands,
Stromboli and its volcano, floating upon it like small dusky clouds; and