The Forme of Cury | Page 6

been under-roasted. Table, or case-knives,
would be of little use at this time [82], and the art of carving so
perfectly useless, as to be almost unknown. In about a century
afterwards, however, as appears from archbishop Neville's
entertainment, many articles were served whole, and lord Wylloughby
was the carver [83]. So that carving began now to be practised, and the
proper terms devised. Wynken de Worde printed a _Book of Kervinge_,
A. 1508, wherein the said terms are registered [84]. 'The use of forks at
table, says Dr. Percy, did not prevail in England land till the reign of
James I. as we learn from a remarkable passage in Coryat [85]'; the
passage is indeed curious, but too long to be here transcribed, where
brevity is so much in view; wherefore I shall only add, that forks are
not now used in some parts of Spain [86]. But then it may be said, what
becomes of the old English hospitaliiy in this case, the _roast-beef of
Old England_, so much talked of? I answer, these bulky and
magnificent dishes must have been the product of later reigns, perhaps
of queen Elizabeth's time, since it is plain that in the days of Rich. II.
our ancestors lived much after the French fashion. As to hospitality, the
households of our Nobles were immense, officers, retainers, and
servants, being entertained almost without number; but then, as appears
from the Northumberland Book, and afterwards from the household
establisliment of the prince of Wales, A. 1610, the individuals, or at
least small parties, had their _quantum_, or ordinary, served out, where
any good oeconomy was kept, apart to themselves [87]. Again, we find
in our Roll, that great quantities of the respective viands of the hashes,
were often made at once, as No. 17, Take hennes or conynges. 24, Take
hares. 29, Take pygges. And 31, _Take gees_, &c. So that hospitality
and plentiful housekeeping could just as well be maintained this way,
as by the other of cumbrous unwieldy messes, as much as a man could
carry.
As the messes and sauces are so complex, and the ingredients
consequently so various, it seems necessary that a word should be
spoken concerning the principal of them, and such as are more
frequently employed, before we pass to our method of proceeding in
the publication.

Butter is little used. 'Tis first mentioned No. 81, and occurs but rarely
after [88]; 'tis found but once in the Editor's MS, where it is written
boter. The usual substitutes for it are oil-olive and lard; the latter is
frequently called _grees_, or _grece_, or _whitegrece_, as No. 18. 193.
Capons in Grease occur in Birch's Life of Henry prince of Wales, p.
459, 460. and see Lye in Jun. Etym. v. Greasie. Bishop Patrick has a
remarkable passage concerning this article: 'Though we read of cheese
in _Homer_, _Euripides_, _Theocritus_, and others, yet they never
mention _butter_: nor hath Aristotle a word of it, though he hath sundry
observations about cheese; for butter was not a thing then known
among the _Greeks_; though we see by this and many other places, it
was an ancient food among the eastern people [89].' The Greeks, I
presume, used oil instead of it, and butter in some places of scripture is
thought to mean only cream. [90]
Cheese. See the last article, and what is said of the old Britons above;
as likewise our Glossary.
Ale is applied, No. 113, et alibi; and often in the Ediitor's MS. as 6, 7,
&c. It is used instead of wine, No. 22, and sometimes along with bread
in the Editor's MS. [91] Indeed it is a current opinion that brewing with
hops was not introduced here till the reign of king Henry VIII. [92]
_Bere_, however, is mentioned A. 1504. [93]
Wine is common, both red, and white, No. 21. 53. 37. This article they
partly had of their own growth, [94] and partly by importation from
France [95] and Greece [96]. They had also Rhenish [97], and probably
several other sorts. The vynegreke is among the sweet wines in a MS of
Mr. Astle.
Rice. As this grain was but little, if at all, cultivated in England, it must
have been brought from abroad. Whole or ground-rice enters into a
large number of our compositions, and _resmolle_, No. 96, is a direct
preparation of it.
Alkenet. Anchusa is not only used for colouring, but also fried and
yfoundred, 62. yfondyt, 162. i. e. dissolved, or ground. 'Tis thought to
be a species of the buglos.

Saffron. Saffrwm, Brit. whence it appears, that this name ran through
most languages. Mr. Weever informs us, that this excellent drug was
brought hither in the time of Edward III. [98] and it may be true; but
still no