The Food of the Gods | Page 3

the cacao.[4] A still more
unfortunate corruption is that of "coco-nut" to "cocoa-nut," which is
altogether inexcusable. In this case it is therefore quite correct to drop
the concluding "a," as the coco-nut has nothing whatever to do with
cocoa or the cacao, being the fruit of a palm[5] in every way distinct
from it, as will be seen from the accompanying illustration.
[Illustration--Drawing: COCO-DE-MER.]
The name "coco" is also applied to another quite distinct fruit, the
_coco-de-mer_, or "sea-coco," somewhat resembling a coco-nut in its
pod, but weighing about 28 lbs., and likewise growing on a lofty tree;
its habitat is the Seychelles Islands. Sometimes also, confusion arises
between the cacao and the coca or cuca,[6] a small shrub like a
blackthorn, also widely cultivated in Central America, from the leaves
of which the powerful narcotic cocaine is extracted.
[Illustration--Drawing: LEAVES AND FLOWER OF THE CUCA
SHRUB.]
In the second place, the name "cocoa," which is strictly applicable only
to the pure ground nib or its concentrated essence, is sometimes
unjustifiably applied to preparations of cocoa with starch, alkali, sugar,
etc., which it would be more correct to describe as "chocolate powder,"
chocolate being admittedly a confection of cocoa with other substances
and flavourings.
[Illustration--Black and White Plate: Gathering Cacao: Santa Cruz,
Trinidad.]
"Chocolate" is, therefore, a much wider term than "cocoa," embracing
both the food and the drink prepared from the cacao, and is the
Mexican name, chocolatl, slightly modified, having nothing to do with
the word cacao, in Mexican cacauatl.[7] In the New World it was
compounded of cacao, maize, and flavourings to which the Spaniards,
on discovering it, added sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and other ingredients,

such as musk and ambergris, cloves and nutmegs, almonds and
pistachios, anise, and even red peppers or chillies. "Sometimes," says a
treatise on "The Natural History of Chocolate," "China [quinine] and
assa [foetida?]; and sometimes steel and rhubarb, may be added for
young and green ladies."
In our own times it is unfortunately common to add potato-starch,
arrowroot, etc., to the cocoa, and yet to sell it by the name of the pure
article. Such preparations thicken in the cup, and are preferred by some
under the mistaken impression that this is a sign of its containing more
nutriment instead of less. Although not so wholesome, there could be
no objection to these additions so long as the preparations were not
labelled "cocoa," and were sold at a lower price.
[Illustration--Drawing: PURE DECORTICATED COCOA, HIGHLY
MAGNIFIED.]
Such adulteration is rendered possible by the presence in the bean of a
large proportion of fatty matter or cocoa-butter, which renders it too
rich for most digestions. To overcome this difficulty one or other of
two methods is available: (1) Lowering the percentage of fat by the
addition of starch, sugar, etc.; or (2) removing a large proportion of the
fat by some extractive process; this latter method being in every respect
preferable to that first mentioned.
[Illustration--Drawing: COCOA ADULTERATED WITH
ARROWROOT OR POTATO STARCH.]
In order to avoid the expense and trouble consequent on the latter
process, some manufacturers add alkali, by which means the free fatty
acids are saponified, and the fat is held in a state of emulsion, thus
giving the cocoa a false appearance of solubility.
Another effect of the alkali is to impart to the beverage a much darker
colour, from its action on the natural red colouring matter of the cocoa,
this darkening being often taken, unfortunately, as indicative of
increased strength. On this account the presence of added alkali should
be regarded as an adulteration, unless notified on the package in which
the cocoa is contained.
A more subtle treatment with alkali for the same purpose is the addition
to the pulverized bean of carbonate of ammonia, or caustic ammonia.
This is afterwards volatilized by the application of heat. Scents and
flavourings are then added to disguise their smell and taste.

Besides these combinations of cocoa with starch, sugar, etc., and cocoa
treated with alkali, there are now found on the market mixtures of
cocoa with such substances as kola, malt, hops, etc., sold under
strange-sounding names, reminding one of the many mixtures that are
made up as medicines rather than food. While the substances thus
incorporated are of value in their place, they possess no virtues which
are absent from the pure cocoa, and cannot be in any way considered an
improvement of cocoa as food. The sooner this practice of drug taking
under cover of diet comes to an end the better it will be for the national
health.
Formerly Venetian red, umber, peroxide of iron, and even brick-dust,
were employed to produce a cheaper article, but modern science and
legislation combined have rendered such practices almost impossible.
As early as the reign of George III. an