The Cultivation of The Native Grape, and Manufacture of American Wines | Page 7

during, say, the last ten years. Then, I think I may safely
assert, that the vineyards throughout the whole country did not
comprise more than three to four thousand acres. Now I think I may
safely call them over two millions of acres. Then, our whole list
embraced about ten varieties, all told, of which only the Catawba and
Isabella were considered worthy of general cultivation; now we count
our native varieties by the hundreds, and the Catawba and Isabella will
soon number among the things which have been. Public taste has
become educated, and they are laid aside in disgust, when such
varieties as the Herbemont, Delaware, Clara, Allen's Hybrid, Iona,
Adirondac, and others can be had. Then, grape-growing was confined
to only a few small settlements; now there is not a State in the Union,
from Maine to California, but has its vineyards; and especially our
Western States have entered upon a race which shall excel the other in
the good work. Our brethren in Illinois bid fair to outdo us, and
vineyards spring up as if by magic, even on the prairies. Nay,
grape-culture bids fair to extend into Minnesota, a country which was
considered too cold for almost anything except oats, pines, wolves,
bears, and specimens of daring humanity encased in triple wool. We
begin to find out that we have varieties which will stand almost
anything if they are only somewhat protected in winter. It was formerly
believed that only certain favored locations and soils in each State
would produce good grapes--for instance, sunny hillsides along large
streams; now we begin to see that we can grow some varieties of grape
on almost any soil. One of the most flourishing vineyards I have ever
seen is on one of the islands in the Missouri river, where all the
varieties planted there--some six or seven--seemed perfectly at home in
the rich, sandy mould, where it needs no trenching to loosen the soil.

Then, grape-growing, with the varieties then in cultivation, was a
problem to be solved; now, with the varieties we have proved, it is a
certainty that it is one of the most profitable branches of horticulture,
paying thousands of dollars to the acre every year. Then, wine went
begging at a dollar a gallon; now it sells as fast as made at from two
dollars to six dollars a gallon. Instead of the only wine then considered
fit to drink, we number our wine-producing varieties by the dozen, all
better than the Catawba; among the most prominent of which I will
name--of varieties producing white wine, the Herbemont, Delaware,
Cassidy, Taylor, Rulander, Cunningham, and Louisiana; of light-red
wines, the Concord; of dark-red wines, the Norton's Virginia,
Cynthiana, Arkansas and Clinton; so that every palate can be suited.
And California bids fair to outdo us all; for there, I am told, several
kinds of wine are made from the same grape, in the same vineyard, and
in fabulous quantities. To cite an example of the increase in planting: in
1854 the whole number of vines grown and sold in Hermann did not
exceed two thousand. This season two millions of plants have been
grown and sold, and not half enough to meet the demand. It is said that
the tone of the press is a fair indication of public sentiment. If this is
true what does it prove? Take one of our horticultural periodicals, and
nine-tenths of the advertisements will be "Grape-vines for sale," in any
quantity and at any price, from five dollars to one hundred dollars per
100, raised North, East, South, and West. Turn to the reading matter,
and you can hardly turn over a leaf but the subject of grapes stares you
in the face, with a quiet impunity, which plainly says, "The nation is
affected with grape fever; and while our readers have grape on the
brain there is no fear of overdosing." Why, the best proof I can give my
readers that grape fever does exist to an alarming degree, is this very
book itself. Were not I and they affected with the disease, I should
never have presumed to try their patience.
But, fortunately, the remedy is within easy reach. Plant grapes, every
one of you who is thus afflicted, until our hillsides are covered with
them, and we have made our barren spots blossom as the rose.
Truly, the results we have already obtained, are cheering enough. And
yet all this has been principally achieved in the last few years, while the

nation was involved in one of the most stupendous struggles the world
ever saw, while its very existence was endangered, and thousands upon
thousands of her patriotic sons poured out their blood like water, and
the husbandman left his home; the vintner his vineyard, to fight the