The Continental Monthly, Volume V. Issue I | Page 9

in the guide books. They knew it was to be looked for in a sharp
and peculiar dent in the Shawangunk mountain, which dent, so far as
they could judge from the hills near their dwelling on the northern
slope of the Highlands, must be nearly opposite Poughkeepsie. Neither
map nor gazetteer could they procure; the neighbors could give them no
information, and they were forced to proceed with only the
above-mentioned meagre stock of knowledge.

The first stage was of five miles, in a carriage to Newburg, where they
took the day boat for Albany. Our novices felt more or less anxiety
regarding the fidelity of the porter intrusted with their two small
articles of baggage; but said articles appearing somewhat late, though
still in season, and being duly marked for Poughkeepsie, the first
question asked was as to the existence of such a place as New Paltz
Landing, opposite the above-named city, and the facilities for crossing
the river. None of those in authority knew certainly of a ferry, but
supposed it highly probable. The wharf at Poughkeepsie was suggested
as a proper place to obtain information; and, once there, our travellers
soon found themselves in the hands of an intelligent contraband, who
promised to place them safely on the desired ferry boat. As they neared
the dock, a great rock, with an upset wagon for foreground, furnished
an encouraging picture for two lone lady tourists. The boat proved neat
and comfortable, and here again inquiries were made. The very polite
captain had heard of a lake on the Shawangunk mountain, but knew
neither its name nor exact location. He advised them to have their
baggage sent to the little inn at the landing, where they might dine and
await a stage expected to pass in about an hour on its way to New Paltz,
a village nine miles west of the river. At the inn they fancied they must
certainly learn something definite regarding the final object of their
undertaking. A large map of Ulster county hung in the sitting room, and
gave promise of some decided information. Unfortunately, it was not of
a recent edition: a nameless lake on the Shawangunk mountain, about
five miles from New Paltz, seemed to be the object of their search; but
the landlord, who had heard of a lake in that direction, could not tell
how it was to be reached, or whether shelter could there be found in
any decent tenement; his impression was that there had been a public
house on top of the mountain, but that it had recently been destroyed by
fire. Certainties were evidently still unattainable.
Finally, the stage arrived--a vehicle drawn by two horses, and intended
to seat four persons. In it were already two ladies, with bags and
bundles, two trunks, a champagne basket, numberless packages, and
about fifty bottles of soda water, laid in among the straw covering the
bottom of the accommodating conveyance. The driver, a good-natured,
intelligent man, gave our travellers his bench, and arranged a seat for

himself and the champagne basket on a sort of shelf overhanging the
tails of the horses. At the top of the first hill is the village of
Houstonville, where they stopped at the post office to leave the mail,
and where two ladies appeared as claimants for seats in the stage. The
driver at first demurred; but, finding the ladies persistent, he drew forth
a board, and, fastening it at either end to a perpendicular prop,
constructed a third bench, on which the two new passengers took their
places.
The stage was by this time more than well packed; but ere long the
process of lightening up commenced, as first the champagne basket,
then packages, bundles, and newspapers, were left at various dwellings
along the roadside. One novelty especially striking was the wayside
post office, consisting of a box on a pole, intended to contain the daily
newspaper therein thrust to await the coming of the owners.
Of course the driver was plied with numerous questions regarding the
thus far nameless lake. He had been up the Shawangunk mountain
fishing, but that was years before; there was a lake, but he had never
heard any name given to it; he had understood a house had been built
since his last visit; but he did not know if it was intended to
accommodate visitors during the night. Of one thing, however, he was
quite certain, and that was, the impossibility of finding a horse in New
Paltz to take the ladies up that evening. The inns had none to let; there
were no livery stables, and his own pair were too greatly fatigued by
their twenty-mile drive to venture up so steep an ascent; but he thought
a conveyance might be found for the following