I am here with my cap and 
bells I am also here with some serious descriptions of the 
Mormons--their manners--their customs--and while the pictures I shall 
present to your notice are by no means works of art--they are painted 
from photographs actually taken on the spot (They were photographed 
by Savage & Ottinger, of Salt Lake City, the photographers to Brigham 
Young.)--and I am sure I need not inform any person present who was 
ever in the territory of Utah that they are as faithful as they could 
possibly be. (Curtain.--The picture was concealed from view during the 
first part of the lecture by a crimson curtain. This was drawn together 
or opened many times in the course of the lecture, and at odd points of 
the lecture. I am not aware that Artemus himself could have explained 
why he caused the curtain to be drawn at one place and not at another. 
Probably he thought it to be one of his good jokes that it should shut in 
the picture just when there was no reason for its being used.) 
I went to Great Salt Lake City by way of California? (That is, he went 
by steamer from New York to Aspinwall, thence across the Isthmus of 
Panama by railway, and then from Panama to California by another 
steamboat. A journey which then occupied about three weeks.) 
I went to California on the steamer "Ariel." 
This is the steamer "Ariel." (Picture.) 
Oblige me by calmly gazing on the steamer "Ariel"--and when you go 
to California be sure and go on some other steamer-- because the Ariel 
isn't a very good one. 
When I reached the "Ariel"--at pier No. 4--New York--I found the 
passengers in a state of great confusion about their things--which were 
being thrown around by the ship's porters in a manner at once 
damaging and idiotic.--So great was the excitement--my fragile form 
was smashed this way--and jammed that way--till finally I was shoved 
into a stateroom which was occupied by two middle-aged females--who
said, "Base man--leave us--O leave us!"--I left them--Oh--I left them! 
We reach Acapulco on the coast of Mexico in due time. Nothing of 
special interest occurred at Acapulco--only some of the Mexican ladies 
are very beautiful. They all have brilliant black hair--hair "black as 
starless night"--if I may quote from the "Family Herald". It don't 
curl.--A Mexican lady's hair never curls--it is straight as an Indian's. 
Some people's hair won't curl under any circumstances.--My hair won't 
curl under two shillings. (Artemus always wore his hair straight until 
his severe illness in Salt Lake City. So much of it dropped off during 
his recovery that he became dissatisfied with the long meagre 
appearance his countenance presented when he surveyed it in the 
looking-glass. After his lecture at the Salt Lake City Theatre he did not 
lecture again until we had crossed the Rocky Mountains and arrived at 
Denver City, the capital of Colorado. On the afternoon he was to 
lecture there I met him coming out of an ironmonger's store with a 
small parcel in his hand. "I want you, old fellow," he said; "I have been 
all around the city for them, and I've got them at last." "Got what?" I 
asked. "A pair of curling-tongs. I am going to have my hair curled to 
lecture in to-night. I mean to cross the plains in curls. Come home with 
me and try to curl it for me. I don't want to go to any idiot of a barber to 
be laughed at." I played the part of friseur. Subsequently he became his 
own "curlist," as he phrased it. >From that day forth Artemus was a 
curly-haired man.) 
(Picture of) The great thoroughfare of the imperial city of the Pacific 
Coast (with a sign saying "Artemus Ward, Platts Hall every evening.") 
The Chinese form a large element in the population of San 
Francisco--and I went to the Chinese Theatre. 
A Chinese play often lasts two months. Commencing at the hero's birth, 
it is cheerfully conducted from week to week till he is either killed or 
married. 
The night I was there a Chinese comic vocalist sang a Chinese comic 
song. It took him six weeks to finish it--but as my time was limited, I 
went away at the expiration of 215 verses. There were 11,000 verses to 
this song--the chorus being "Tural lural dural, ri fol day"--which was 
repeated twice at the end of each verse--making--as you will at once 
see--the appalling number of 22,000 "tural lural dural, ri fol days"--and 
the man still lives.
(Picture of) Virginia City--in the bright new State of Nevada. (Virginia 
City itself is built on a ledge cut out of the side of Mount Davidson, 
which rises some 9000 feet above the sea level--the city being about 
half way up its    
    
		
	
	
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