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are almost always allied), as well as
sightliness (which is not always in the combination).

THE NECESSITY OF GOOD FLOORS
Happily, when we come to floors we find that those which may be
depended upon to endure and to give their share of home comfort are
also the best to look upon. It would be agreeable to say, further, that
they cost least, but that would be misleading. This book fails to say not
a few things that would be interesting but which wouldn't be of much
real use to the homemaker, because they aren't so.
Leaving the everlastingly pestiferous question of cost aside, what is the
best all-around flooring? Well, so far no one has been able to suggest
anything that seems so appropriate as a good quality of hard
wood--which means oak or maple, or both--properly treated and, above
all, laid down as it should be. The flooring is a permanent part of the
house, or, if it isn't, we'll certainly wish it had been. As it is subject to

harder and more constant usage than any other part of the structure, it
must be strong, and it must have a surface that will resist wear, or we
shall simply store up trouble for the future. It is also a part of the
decorative scheme, and as such must help to furnish the keynote of our
plans. All these requirements are met by hard wood.
It is possible, we may admit, to have a happy and comfortable home
with cheaper flooring; but the price that is not paid in money will be
afterwards collected with interest in effort and sacrifice of satisfaction.
Doubtless it is not wise, as some one suggests, to put so much money
into our floors that we cannot afford to buy anything to put on them;
but in many instances the appearance of our house interiors would be
much more pleasing if fewer pieces of superfluous furniture were
brought in to cover the floors. At any rate, the longed-for furniture may
be "saved up for" and bought later; a mistake in floors to start with is
hard to rectify.

MATERIAL AND COST OF LAYING
Oak flooring comes in narrow, thin strips of plain- or quarter-sawed. At
this writing the plain-sawed costs, laid, usually 16 cents per square foot.
It will never be cheaper. Where quarter-sawed is desired, a cent per
foot must be added. Borders, which are by no means essential, cost
from 20 to 45 cents per lineal foot (laid). In a country house, where
local artisans do the laying, the expense may be somewhat less for
labor. But it must be remembered that fine floor laying is a trade of
itself, and that the time to make sure of the work being properly done is
when the wood is put in. If the building is properly constructed, a
bulging or cracked floor is unnecessary. At all events, if we are in
doubt as to the village carpenter's skill, we would do well to pay the
few dollars extra for the expert from the city. Careful measurements are
also important, especially with borders and parquetry.

ORNAMENTAL FLOORING

The hall, if large, will permit of rather more elaborate treatment than
the rooms which are to be constantly occupied. No part of the house
that is in use for hours at a time should be at all over-elaborated,
particularly in its unchangeable features. Care must be taken even in
the hall to avoid any freakish combination that will either stand out
conspicuously or demand a like treatment of the walls.
[Illustration: An attractive and inexpensive hall.]
Some folk like tiling in the hall, and if we have little more than a
vestibule, tiling is quite satisfactory. It is durable and can be easily
cleaned. But if the hall be of the medium or generous size, parquetry
will be found more approvable if the expense can be afforded. The
designs are richer without being so glaring as many of the tile effects,
and the wood seems to have less harshness. Rubber tiling, however, has
been found useful in places where there is frequent passing in and
outdoors, and has been developed in some pleasing designs.
The additional cost for parquetry is not formidable in a moderate-sized
hall. Prices range from 20 to 40 cents per square foot, according to
design. We shall be wisely guided in choosing a simple square
arrangement that will not protest against any passable decoration of the
walls. Unless the hall is spacious borders would better be omitted. They
need to have the effect of running into hearths and stairways, and in a
narrow passage the center will be too crowded.
Dining room and living room suggest the quarter-sawed flooring, the
former admitting perhaps the stronger border, unless the two rooms