The Bible in Spain | Page 6

lazily, instead
of applying them to the indispensable office of gesticulation. Well may
the poor Spaniards exclaim, THESE ENGLISH TALK SO
CRABBEDLY, THAT SATAN HIMSELF WOULD NOT BE ABLE
TO UNDERSTAND THEM.
Lisbon is a huge ruinous city, still exhibiting in almost every direction
the vestiges of that terrific visitation of God, the earthquake which
shattered it some eighty years ago. It stands on seven hills, the loftiest
of which is occupied by the castle of Saint George, which is the boldest
and most prominent object to the eye, whilst surveying the city from
the Tagus. The most frequented and busy parts of the city are those
comprised within the valley to the north of this elevation.
Here you find the Plaza of the Inquisition, the principal square in
Lisbon, from which run parallel towards the river three or four streets,
amongst which are those of the gold and silver, so designated from
being inhabited by smiths cunning in the working of those metals; they
are upon the whole very magnificent; the houses are huge and as high
as castles; immense pillars defend the causeway at intervals, producing,
however, rather a cumbrous effect. These streets are quite level, and are
well paved, in which respect they differ from all the others in Lisbon.
The most singular street, however, of all is that of the Alemcrin, or
Rosemary, which debouches on the Caesodre. It is very precipitous,
and is occupied on either side by the palaces of the principal
Portuguese nobility, massive and frowning, but grand and picturesque,
edifices, with here and there a hanging garden, overlooking the streets
at a great height.
With all its ruin and desolation, Lisbon is unquestionably the most
remarkable city in the Peninsula, and, perhaps, in the south of Europe.
It is not my intention to enter into minute details concerning it; I shall
content myself with remarking, that it is quite as much deserving the
attention of the artist as even Rome itself. True it is that though it

abounds with churches it has no gigantic cathedral, like St. Peter's, to
attract the eye and fill it with wonder, yet I boldly say that there is no
monument of man's labour and skill, pertaining either to ancient or
modern Rome, for whatever purpose designed, which can rival the
water-works of Lisbon; I mean the stupendous aqueduct whose
principal arches cross the valley to the north-east of Lisbon, and which
discharges its little runnel of cool and delicious water into the rocky
cistern within that beautiful edifice called the Mother of the Waters,
from whence all Lisbon is supplied with the crystal lymph, though the
source is seven leagues distant. Let travellers devote one entire morning
to inspecting the Arcos and the Mai das Agoas, after which they may
repair to the English church and cemetery, Pere-la-chaise in miniature,
where, if they be of England, they may well be excused if they kiss the
cold tomb, as I did, of the author of Amelia, the most singular genius
which their island ever produced, whose works it has long been the
fashion to abuse in public and to read in secret. In the same cemetery
rest the mortal remains of Doddridge, another English author of a
different stamp, but justly admired and esteemed. I had not intended, on
disembarking, to remain long in Lisbon, nor indeed in Portugal; my
destination was Spain, whither I shortly proposed to direct my steps, it
being the intention of the Bible Society to attempt to commence
operations in that country, the object of which should be the
distribution of the Word of God, for Spain had hitherto been a region
barred against the admission of the Bible; not so Portugal, where, since
the revolution, the Bible had been permitted both to be introduced and
circulated. Little, however, had been accomplished; therefore, finding
myself in the country, I determined, if possible, to effect something in
the way of distribution, but first of all to make myself acquainted as to
how far the people were disposed to receive the Bible, and whether the
state of education in general would permit them to turn it to much
account. I had plenty of Bibles and Testaments at my disposal, but
could the people read them, or would they? A friend of the Society to
whom I was recommended was absent from Lisbon at the period of my
arrival; this I regretted, as he could have afforded me several useful
hints. In order, however, that no time might be lost, I determined not to
wait for his arrival, but at once proceed to gather the best information I
could upon those points to which I have already alluded. I determined

to commence my researches at some slight distance from Lisbon, being
well aware of the erroneous ideas