holy father supposes that the Spanish labourers are friends and
lovers of his. Undeceive yourself, Batuschca!
But to return to the present work: it is devoted to an account of what
befell me in Spain whilst engaged in distributing the Scripture. With
respect to my poor labours, I wish here to observe, that I accomplished
but very little, and that I lay claim to no brilliant successes and
triumphs; indeed I was sent into Spain more to explore the country, and
to ascertain how far the minds of the people were prepared to receive
the truths of Christianity, than for any other object; I obtained, however,
through the assistance of kind friends, permission from the Spanish
government to print an edition of the sacred volume at Madrid, which I
subsequently circulated in that capital and in the provinces.
During my sojourn in Spain, there were others who wrought good
service in the Gospel cause, and of whose efforts it were unjust to be
silent in a work of this description. Base is the heart which would
refuse merit its meed, and, however insignificant may be the value of
any eulogium which can flow from a pen like mine, I cannot refrain
from mentioning with respect and esteem a few names connected with
Gospel enterprise. A zealous Irish gentleman, of the name of Graydon,
exerted himself with indefatigable diligence in diffusing the light of
Scripture in the province of Catalonia, and along the southern shores of
Spain; whilst two missionaries from Gibraltar, Messrs. Rule and Lyon,
during one entire year, preached Evangelic truth in a Church at Cadiz.
So much success attended the efforts of these two last brave disciples
of the immortal Wesley, that there is every reason for supposing that,
had they not been silenced and eventually banished from the country by
the pseudo-liberal faction of the Moderados, not only Cadiz, but the
greater part of Andalusia, would by this time have confessed the pure
doctrines of the Gospel, and have discarded for ever the last relics of
popish superstition.
More immediately connected with the Bible Society and myself, I am
most happy to take this opportunity of speaking of Luis de Usoz y Rio,
the scion of an ancient and honourable family of Old Castile, my
coadjutor whilst editing the Spanish New Testament at Madrid.
Throughout my residence in Spain, I experienced every mark of
friendship from this gentleman, who, during the periods of my absence
in the provinces, and my numerous and long journeys, cheerfully
supplied my place at Madrid, and exerted himself to the utmost in
forwarding the views of the Bible Society, influenced by no other
motive than a hope that its efforts would eventually contribute to the
peace, happiness, and civilisation of his native land.
In conclusion, I beg leave to state that I am fully aware of the various
faults and inaccuracies of the present work. It is founded on certain
journals which I kept during my stay in Spain, and numerous letters
written to my friends in England, which they had subsequently the
kindness to restore: the greater part, however, consisting of descriptions
of scenery, sketches of character, etc., has been supplied from memory.
In various instances I have omitted the names of places, which I have
either forgotten, or of whose orthography I am uncertain. The work, as
it at present exists, was written in a solitary hamlet in a remote part of
England, where I had neither books to consult, nor friends of whose
opinion or advice I could occasionally avail myself, and under all the
disadvantages which arise from enfeebled health; I have, however, on a
recent occasion, experienced too much of the lenity and generosity of
the public, both of Britain and America, to shrink from again exposing
myself to its gaze, and trust that, if in the present volumes it finds but
little to admire, it will give me credit for good spirit, and for setting
down nought in malice.
Nov. 26, 1842.
CHAPTER I
Man Overboard--The Tagus--Foreign
Languages--Gesticulation--Streets of Lisbon--The Aqueduct--Bible
tolerated in Portugal--Cintra--Don Sebastian--John de
Castro--Conversation with a Priest--Colhares-- Mafra--Its Palace--The
Schoolmaster--The Portuguese--Their Ignorance of Scripture--Rural
Priesthood--The Alemtejo.
On the morning of the tenth of November, 1835, I found myself off the
coast of Galicia, whose lofty mountains, gilded by the rising sun,
presented a magnificent appearance. I was bound for Lisbon; we passed
Cape Finisterre, and standing farther out to sea, speedily lost sight of
land. On the morning of the eleventh the sea was very rough, and a
remarkable circumstance occurred. I was on the forecastle, discoursing
with two of the sailors: one of them, who had but just left his hammock,
said, "I have had a strange dream, which I do not much like, for,"
continued he, pointing up to the mast, "I
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