(like brunettes) just
before they are fully matured. So says a great authority, and no doubt
he is thinking of young peas and beans, lettuces and asparagus. Try to
dress such things as potatoes, parsnips, cabbages, carrots, in other ways
than simply boiled in water, for the water often removes the flavor and
leaves the fiber. Do not let your vegetable-dishes remind your guests of
Froissart's account of Scotchmen's food, which was "rubbed in a little
water."
SWEETS: It is difficult to give any general directions for sweets. They
should be made to look attractive, and they should be constantly varied.
The same remarks apply to savories, which last ought always to be
highly seasoned, whether hot or cold.
MADE DISHES are a great feature in this little book. I have tried to
help those small households who cook, let us say, a leg of mutton on
Sunday, and then see it meander through the week in various guises till
it ends its days honorable as soup on the following Friday. Endeavor to
hide from your husband that you are making that leg of mutton almost
achieve eternal life. It is noticeable that men are attracted to a house
where there is good cooking, and the most unapproachable beings are
rendered accessible by the pleasantness of a _soufflé_, or the aroma of
a roast duck. You must have observed that a certain number of single
men have their hearts very "wishful" towards their cook. Not
infrequently they marry that cook; but it is less that she is a good and
charming woman than that she is a good and charming cook. Ponder
this, therefore; for I have known men otherwise happy, who long for a
good beef-steak pudding as vainly as the Golden Ass longed for a meal
of roses. Try these recipes, for really good rissoles and hashes.
Twice-cooked meat can always be alleviated by mushrooms or
tomatoes. Remember that the discovery of a new dish is of more use
than the discovery of a new star, --besides which, you will get much
more praise for it. And if on Wednesday you find that you have to eat
the same part of the very same animal that you had on Monday, do not,
pray, become exasperated; treat it affectionately, as I treat my black hat,
which becomes more ravishing every time that I alter it. Only, do not
buy extravagant make-weight for a scrap of cold meat that would be
best used in a mince patty, or you will be like a man keeping a horse in
order to grow mushrooms.
And, lastly, the good cook must learn about food what every sensible
woman learns about love--how best to utilize the cold remains.
M. LUCK.
PART I
CAULIFLOWER SOUP
After you have boiled a cauliflower, it is a great extravagance to throw
away the liquor; it is delicately flavored and forms the basis of a good
soup. Wash well your cauliflower, taking great care to remove all grit
and insects. Place it to simmer with its head downwards, in salted water;
and, when it is tender, remove it. Now for the soup. Let all the outer
leaves and odd bits simmer well, then pass them through a sieve. Fry
some chopped onions, add the liquor of the cauliflower and the pieces
that have been rubbed through the sieve, add a little white pepper and a
slice of brown bread. Let all cook gently for half-an-hour, then, just
before serving it, take out the slice of bread and sprinkle in two
teaspoonfuls of grated Gruyere cheese.
FISH SOUP
When you buy fish and have it filleted, ask for the bones and trimmings
to be sent also. Put a quart of milk to heat and add to it a bunch of
mixed herbs, a few minced shallots, parsley, pepper and salt. Throw in
your fish and cook for an hour. If you have any celery put in a piece, or
two or three white artichokes. Strain the soup, taste it, and add more
salt or more milk as you think necessary. Return to the pan. Take the
yolk of an egg and just before taking the soup from the fire, stir it
quickly in. This soup must never boil. It should be made out of the very
white fish, excluding herring and mackerel.
STARVATION SOUP
If you have a pork-bone from the fresh meat, let it boil in water for an
hour. Put the pan to cool and take off the fat, and remove the bone.
Replace the pan on the fire and throw into it two pounds of Brussels
sprouts. Do not add onions to this soup but leeks, and the hearts of
cabbage. Pepper and spice to taste. Rub it through a sieve and let it be
thick enough to form
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