purpose was to search for the remnants of
primitive civilization among the more isolated of the native Indian
tribes; and out of the fragments thus found, pieced together with what
more I could glean from the early ecclesiastical and civil records, to
recreate, so far as this was possible, the fabric that was destroyed by the
Spanish conquerors. Nowhere could my investigations be conducted to
better advantage than in the State of Michoacan (of which State the city
of Morelia is the capital) and in the adjacent State of Jalisco; for in this
region tribes still exist which never have been, reduced to more than
nominal subjection, and which, maintain to a great extent their
primitive customs and their primitive faith, though curiously mingling
with this latter many Christian observances. Indeed, the independence
of the Indians of these parts is so notable that the proverb "Free as
Jalisco" is current throughout Mexico. Moreover, Morelia is a city rich
in ancient records. The archives of the Franciscan province, that has its
centre here extend back to the year 1531; those of the Bishopric of
Michoacan to the year 1538; and those of the Colegio de San Nicolás to
the year 1540; while in the recently founded Museo Michoacano
already has been collected a rich store of archæological material. In a
word, there was no place in all Mexico where my studies and my
investigations could be pursued to such advantage as they could be
pursued here.
From a fellow-archæologist in the City of Mexico I brought a letter of
introduction to the director of the Museo, the learned Dr. Nicolás Leon;
and so cordially was this letter worded, and so cordially was it received,
that within the day of my coming into that strange city I found myself
in the midst of friends. At once their hearts and their houses were
opened to me, and they gave me with a warm enthusiasm the benefit of
their knowledge and of their active assistance forwarding the work that
I had in hand.
In the quiet retirement of the Museo I opened to that one of its
members to whom the director especially had commended me, Don
Rafael Moreno, the purposes which I had in view, and the means by
which I hoped to accomplish them. "Surely," I said, "among the free
Indians in the mountains hereabouts much may be found--in customs,
in tone of thought, in religion--that has remained unchanged since the
time of the conquest."
Don Rafael nodded. "Fray Antonio has said as much," he observed,
thoughtfully.
"And as your own distinguished countryman, Señor Orozco y Berra,
has pointed out," I continued, "many dark places in primitive history
may be made clear, many illusions may be dispelled, and many deeply
interesting truths may be gathered by one who will go among these
Indians, lending himself to their mode of life, and will note accurately
what he thus learns from sources wholly original."
"Fray Antonio has professed the same belief," Don Rafael answered.
"But that his love is greater for the saving of heathen souls than for the
advancement of antiquarian knowledge, he long ago would have done
what you now propose to do. He has done much towards gathering a
portion of the information that you seek, even as it is."
"And who is this Fray Antonio, señor?"
"He is the man who of all men can give you the wisest help in your
present need. We see but little of him here at the Museo, though he is
one of our most honored members, for his time is devoted so wholly to
the godly work to which he has given himself that but little remains to
him to use in other ways. He is a monk, vowed to the Rule of St.
Francis. As you know, since the promulgation of the Laws of the
Reform, monks are not permitted in our country to live in communities;
but, with only a few exceptions, the conventual churches which have
not be secularized still are administered by members of the religious
orders to which they formerly belonged. Fray Antonio has the charge of
the church of San Francisco--over by the market-place, you know--and
virtually is a parish priest. He is a religious enthusiast. In God's service
he gives himself no rest. The common people here, since his loving
labors are among them while the pestilence of small-pox raged,
reverently believe him to be a saint; and those of a higher class, who
know what heroic work he did in that dreadful time, and who see how
perfectly his life conforms to the principles which he professes, and
how like is the spirit of holiness that animates him to that of the sainted
men who founded the order to which he belongs, are disposed to hold a
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