The Art of Perfumery | Page 7

more; it has a small aperture at the bottom to allow the expressed
material to run for collection; in the interior is placed a perforated false
bottom, and on this the substance to be squeezed is placed, covered
with an iron plate fitting the interior; this is connected with a powerful
screw, which, being turned, forces the substance so closely together,
that the little vessels containing the essential oils are burst, and it thus
escapes. The common tincture press is indeed a model of such an
instrument. The oils which are thus collected are contaminated with
watery extracts, which exudes at the same time, and from which it has
to be separated; this it does by itself in a measure, by standing in a quiet
place, and it is then poured off and strained.
[Illustration: Pipette to draw off small portions of otto from water.]
2. _Distillation._--The plant, or part of it, which contains the
odoriferous principle, is placed in an iron, copper, or glass pan, varying
in size from that capable of holding from one to twenty gallons, and
covered with water; to the pan a dome-shaped lid is fitted, terminating
with a pipe, which is twisted corkscrew fashion, and fixed in a bucket,

with the end peeping out like a tap in a barrel. The water in the still--for
such is the name of the apparatus--is made to boil; and having no other
exit, the steam must pass through the coiled pipe; which, being
surrounded with cold water in the bucket, condenses the vapor before it
can arrive at the tap. With the steam, the volatile oils--_i.e._
perfume--rises, and is liquefied at the same time. The liquids which
thus run over, on standing for a time, separate into two portions, and
are finally divided with a funnel having a stopcock in the narrow part of
it. By this process, the majority of the volatile or essential oils are
procured. In some few instances alcohol--_i.e._ rectified spirit of
wine--is placed upon the odorous materials in lieu of water, which, on
being distilled, comes away with the perfuming substance dissolved in
it. But this process is now nearly obsolete, as it is found more
beneficial to draw the oil or essence first with water, and afterwards to
dissolve it in the spirit. The low temperature at which spirit boils,
compared with water, causes a great loss of essential oil, the heat not
being sufficient to disengage it from the plant, especially where seeds
such as cloves or caraway are employed. It so happens, however, that
the finest odors, the _recherché_ as the Parisians say, cannot be
procured by this method; then recourse is had to the next process.
[Illustration: Tap funnel for separating ottos from water and spirits
from oil.]
3. _Maceration._--Of all the processes for procuring the perfumes of
flowers, this is the most important to the perfumer, and is the least
understood in England; as this operation yields not only the most
exquisite essences indirectly, but also nearly all those fine pomades
known here as "French pomatums," so much admired for the strength
of fragrance, together with "French oils" equally perfumed. The
operation is conducted thus:--For what is called pomade, a certain
quantity of purified mutton or deer suet is put into a clean metal or
porcelain pan, this being melted by a steam heat; the kind of flowers
required for the odor wanted are carefully picked and put into the liquid
fat, and allowed to remain from twelve to forty-eight hours; the fat has
a particular affinity or attraction for the oil of flowers, and thus, as it
were, draws it out of them, and becomes itself, by their aid, highly

perfumed; the fat is strained from the spent flowers, and fresh are added
four or five times over, till the pomade is of the required strength; these
various strengths of pomatums are noted by the French makers as Nos.
6, 12, 18, and 24, the higher numerals indicating the amount of
fragrance in them. For perfumed oils the same operation is followed;
but, in lieu of suet, fine olive oil or oil of ben, derived from the ben
nuts of the Levant, is used, and the same results are obtained. These
oils are called "Huile Antique" of such and such a flower.
When neither of the foregoing processes gives satisfactory results, the
method of procedure adopted is by,--
4. Absorption, or _Enfleurage._--The odors of some flowers are so
delicate and volatile, that the heat required in the previously named
processes would greatly modify, if not entirely spoil them; this process
is, therefore, conducted cold, thus:--Square frames, about three inches
deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet wide and three feet long, are
procured; over the glass a layer of fat is spread, about half an inch thick,