Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family

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Title: Servia, Youngest Member of the European Family or, A
Residence in Belgrade and Travels in the Highlands and Woodlands of
the Interior, during the years 1843 and 1844.
Author: Andrew Archibald Paton
Release Date: November 4, 2005 [EBook #16999]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
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SERVIA,
YOUNGEST MEMBER OF THE EUROPEAN FAMILY:
OR, A
RESIDENCE IN BELGRADE,
AND
TRAVELS IN THE HIGHLANDS AND WOODLANDS OF THE
INTERIOR,
DURING THE YEARS 1843 AND 1844.
BY
ANDREW ARCHIBALD PATON, ESQ.
AUTHOR OF "THE MODERN SYRIANS."
"Les hommes croient en general connaitre suffisamment l'Empire
Ottoman pour peu qu'ils aient lu l'enorme compilation que le savant M.
de Hammer a publiee ... mais en dehors de ce mouvement central il y a
la vie interieure de province, dont le tableau tout entier reste a faire."
LONDON: LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS,
PATERNOSTER ROW.
1845.

PREFACE.

The narrative and descriptive portion of this work speaks for itself. In
the historical part I have consulted with advantage Von Engel's
"History of Servia," Ranke's "Servian Revolution," Possart's "Servia,"
and Ami Boue's "Turquie d'Europe," but took the precaution of
submitting the facts selected to the censorship of those on the spot best
able to test their accuracy. For this service, I owe a debt of
acknowledgment to M. Hadschitch, the framer of the Servian code; M.
Marinovitch, Secretary of the Senate; and Professor John Shafarik,
whose lectures on Slaavic history, literature, and antiquities, have
obtained unanimous applause.

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER 1.
Leave Beyrout.--Camp afloat.-Rhodes.--The shores of the
Mediterranean suitable for the cultivation of the arts.--A Moslem of the
new school.--American Presbyterian clergyman.--A Mexican
senator.--A sermon for sailors.--Smyrna.--Buyukdere.--Sir Stratford
Canning.--Embark for Bulgaria.
CHAPTER II.
Varna.--Contrast of Northern and Southern provinces of
Turkey.--Roustchouk.--Conversation with Deftendar.--The Danube.--A
Bulgarian interior.--A dandy of the Lower Danube.--Depart for Widdin.
CHAPTER III.
River steaming.--Arrival at Widdin.--Jew.--Comfortless
khan.--Wretched appearance of Widdin.--Hussein Pasha.--M.
Petronievitch.--Steam balloon.
CHAPTER IV.
Leave Widdin.--The Timok.--Enter Servia.--Brza Palanka.--The Iron

Gates.--Old and New Orsova.--Wallachian Matron.--Semlin.--A
conversation on language.
CHAPTER V.
Description of Belgrade.--Fortifications.--Street and street
population.--Cathedral.--Large square.--Coffee-house.--Deserted
villa.--Baths.
CHAPTER VI.
Europeanization of Belgrade.--Lighting and paving.--Interior of the
fortress.--Turkish Pasha.--Turkish quarter.--Turkish
population.--Panorama of Belgrade.--Dinner party given by the prince.
CHAPTER VII.
Return to Servia.--The Danube.--Semlin.--Wucics and
Petronievitch.--Cathedral solemnity.--Subscription ball.
CHAPTER VIII.
Holman, the blind traveller.--Milutinovich, the poet.--Bulgarian
legend.--Tableau de genre.--Departure for the interior.
CHAPTER IX.
Journey to Shabatz.--Resemblance of manners to those of the middle
ages.--Palesh.--A Servian bride.--Blind
minstrel.--Gipsies.--Macadamized roads.
CHAPTER X.
Shabatz.--A provincial chancery.--Servian collector.--Description of his
house.--Country barber.--Turkish quarter.--Self-taught priest.--A
provincial dinner.--Native soiree.

CHAPTER XI.
Kaimak.--History of a renegade.--A bishop's house.--Progress of
education.--Portrait of Milosh.--Bosnia and the Bosnians.--Moslem
fanaticism.--Death of the collector.
CHAPTER XII.
The banat of Matchva.--Losnitza.--Feuds on the frontier.--Enter the
back-woods.--Convent of Tronosha.--Greek festival.--Congregation of
peasantry.--Rustic finery.
CHAPTER XIII.
Romantic sylvan scenery.--Patriarchal simplicity of
manners.--Krupena.--Sokol.--Its extraordinary position.--Wretched
town.--Alpine scenery.--Cool reception.--Valley of the Rogatschitza.
CHAPTER XIV.
The Drina.--Liubovia.--Quarantine station.--Derlatcha.--A Servian
beauty.--A lunatic priest.--Sorry quarters.--Murder by brigands.
CHAPTER XV.
Arrival at Ushitza.--Wretched street.--Excellent khan.--Turkish
vayvode.--A Persian dervish.--Relations of Moslems and
Christians.--Visit the castle.--Bird's eye view.
CHAPTER XVI.
Poshega.--The river Morava.--Arrival at Csatsak.--A Viennese
doctor.--Project to ascend the Kopaunik.--Visit the bishop.--Ancient
cathedral church.--Greek mass.--Karanovatz.--Emigrant
priest.--Albanian disorders.--Salt mines.
CHAPTER XVII.

Coronation church of the ancient kings of Servia.--Enter the
Highlands.--Valley of the Ybar.--First view of the High
Balkan.--Convent of Studenitza.--Byzantine Architecture.--Phlegmatic
monk.--Servian frontier.--New quarantine.--Russian major.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Cross the Bosniac frontier.--Gipsy encampment.--Novibazar
described.--Rough reception.--Precipitate departure.--Fanaticism.
CHAPTER XIX.
Ascent of the Kopaunik.--Grand prospect.--Descent of the
Kopaunik.--Bruss.--Involuntary bigamy.--Conversation on the Servian
character.--Krushevatz.--Relics of monarchy.
CHAPTER XX.
Formation of the Servian monarchy.--Contest between the Latin and
Greek Churches.--Stephen Dushan.--A great warrior.--Results of his
victories.--Kucs Lasar.--Invasion of Amurath.--Battle of
Kossovo.--Death of Lasar and Amurath.--Fall of the Servian
monarchy.--General observations.
CHAPTER XXI.
A battue missed.--Proceed to Alexinatz.--Foreign-Office
courier.--Bulgarian frontier.--Gipsy Suregee.--Tiupria.--New bridge
and macadamized roads.
CHAPTER XXII.
Visit to Ravanitza.--Jovial party.--Servian and Austrian
jurisdiction.--Convent described.--Eagles reversed.--Bulgarian
festivities.
CHAPTER XXIII.

Manasia.--Has preserved its middle-age character.--Robinson
Crusoe.--Wonderful echo.--Kindness of the
people.--Svilainitza.--Posharevatz.--Baby giantess.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Rich soil.--Mysterious waters.--Treaty of Passarovitz.--The castle of
Semendria.--Relics of the antique.--The Brankovitch
family.--Panesova.--Morrison's pills.
CHAPTER XXV.
Personal appearance of the Servians.--Their moral
character.--Peculiarity of manners.--Christmas festivities.--Easter.--The
Dodola.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Town life.--The public offices.--Manners half-oriental
half-European.--Merchants and tradesmen.--Turkish
population.--Porters.--Barbers.--Cafes.--Public writer.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Poetry.--Journalism.--The fine arts.--The Lyceum.--Mineralogical
cabinet.--Museum.--Servian Education.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Preparations for departure.--Impressions