Round About the Carpathians | Page 6

is coy, and now retreats and now
advances; her partner manifests his despair, she yields her hand, and
then the couple whirl off together to the most entrancing tones of wild
music, such as St. Anthony himself could not have resisted.
[Footnote 1: The Danube at Buda-Pest. Report addressed to Count
Andrassy by J.J. Révy, C.E. 1876.]
CHAPTER II.
Consequences of trying to buy a horse--An expedition into Servia--Fine
scenery--The peasants of New Moldova--Szechenyi road--Geology of
the defile of Kasan--Crossing the Danube--Milanovacz-Drive to
Maidenpek--Fearful storm in the mountains--Miserable quarters for the
night--Extent of this storm--The disastrous effects of the same storm at
Buda-Pest--Great loss of life.

My friend H---- is the very impersonation of sound practical sense. The
next morning he coolly broke in upon my raptures over the beauty of
the Oravicza ladies by saying, "You want to buy a horse, don't you?"
Of course I did, but my thoughts were elsewhere at the moment, and
with some reluctance I took my hat and followed my friend to
interview a Wallack who had heard that I was a likely purchaser, and
brought an animal to show me. It would not do at all, arid we dismissed
him.
A little later we went out into the town, and I thought there was a
horse-fair; I should think we met a dozen people at least who came up
to accost me on the subject of buying a horse. And such a collection of
animals!--wild colts from the Pustza that had never been ridden at all,
and other ancient specimens from I know not where, which could never
be ridden again--old, worn-out roadsters. There were two or three good
horses, but they were only fit for harness. I was so bothered every time
I put my nose out of doors by applications from persons anxious to part
with their property in horse-flesh, that I wished I had kept my
intentions locked in my own breast. I was pestered for days about this
business. There was an old Jew who came regularly to the house three
times a-day to tell me of some other paragon that he had found. When
he saw that it was really of no use, he then complained loudly that I had
wasted his precious time, that he had given up every other occupation
for the sake of finding me a horse. I dismissed this Jew, telling him
pretty sharply to go about his own business for once, adding that
nothing should induce me to buy a horse in Oravicza.
One day H---- informed me that he was going over to Servia on a
matter of business, and if I liked to accompany him, I should see
something of the country, and perhaps I might find there a horse to suit
me. The Servian horses are said to be a useful breed, strong though
small, and very enduring for a long march.
I was very ready for the expedition, so we hired a leiterwagen, which is
in fact a long cart with sides like a ladder, peculiarly suitable for rough
work. I was much surprised to find the Hungarians far less often in the
saddle than I expected; it is true, nobody walks, not even the poorest

peasant, but they drive, as a rule.
We started one fine July morning in our machine for Moldova on the
Danube. The first place we came to was Szaszka, a mining village.
Close by are copper mines and smelting-works belonging to the States
Railway Company. I was told that they do not pay as well as formerly,
owing to the fact that the ore now being worked is poorer than before;
it yields only two per cent. of copper, a very low average. Nothing
could well exceed the dirt of Szaszka; we merely stopped long enough
to feed the horses, and were glad to get off again.
On leaving this place the road immediately begins to ascend the
mountain, and may be described as a sort of pass over a spur of the
Carpathians. It was a very beautiful drive, favoured as we were, too,
with fine weather. The road on the northern side is even well made,
ascending in regular zigzags. After gaining the summit, we left the
post-road that we had hitherto traversed, and took our way to the right,
descending through a forest. The varied foliage was very lovely, and
the shade afforded us most grateful. It was an original notion driving
through such a place, for, according to my ideas, there was no road at
all; but H----, more accustomed to the country, declared it was not so
bad, at least he averred that there were other roads much worse. The
jolting we got over the ruts and stones exceeded anything in my
previous experience. How the cart kept itself