Roumania Past and Present | Page 7

proprietary, such a primitive mode of existence, worthy of the days
when the barbarians ravaged Roumanian territory, is not likely long to
continue.
[Illustration: SUBTERRANEAN DWELLINGS WITH PEASANTS.]
So far as the peasantry are concerned, they are a fine healthy body of
men and women, and we shall have an opportunity further on of
enquiring into their habits and condition.
After travelling inland in imagination for the best part of a day--for a
Roumanian railway train does not emulate the 'Flying Dutchman' in
rapidity, although it is a considerable advance upon the old mode of
progression when a dozen horses were often requisite to drag a single
carriage along the muddy roads--and having left the city of Bucarest
with its many cupolas and spires behind us for the present, we approach
the second, more elevated tract of country.[11]
As the distance from the Danube increases, we enter upon a much more

diversified and smiling landscape, and almost every plant growth of the
sub-tropical and temperate zones is to be found there. Amongst trees
the oak, elm, and beech are the most conspicuous; but besides these the
maple, sycamore, mountain ash, lime, horse-chestnut, acacia; and of
fruit trees, the walnut, hazel nut, plum, medlar, cherry, apple, pear, and
vine are frequent. Fields of maize are interspersed with beds of bright
yellow gourds. Wheat, oats, millet, and other cereals are common, and,
in the gardens, roses, geraniums, verbenas, asters, mignonette, and a
great variety of other well-known flowers of the temperate zone, add
beauty and variety to the scene. Indeed, so far as natural productions
are concerned, this part of Roumania leaves nothing to be desired, and
that these blessings of the soil are as plentiful as they are good is to be
found in the cheapness of the fruits offered for sale. Little baskets
containing twenty or thirty fine purple plums may be had for a penny,
and beautiful peaches or large bunches of fine grapes, of natural growth
of course, are purchasable at a proportionately low price. Neither of the
latter fruits is equal to those forced in our houses, but they are
well-flavoured and tender.
And so, too, the peasantry and their habitations wear the appearance of
comfort and prosperity. No more subterranean dwellings, but, in place
thereof, villages consisting of habitations which resemble more or less
the cottages and châlets of Switzerland and the Tyrol, although they are
not generally so well built nor yet so picturesque. They are usually
constructed of wood, bricks, and plaster, and are well whitewashed,
their roofs consisting of little wooden or baked clay tiles or slates, and
they have every convenience belonging to such dwellings. The roadside
cabarets, or public-houses, are often very picturesque, the roof being
frequently ornamented with festoons of vines indicative of the creature
comforts dispensed within.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO CARPATHIAN VILLAGE.]
As we enter into the hill country, groups of peasants, men and women,
may be seen on the roads and railways, keeping them in order, cutting
banks and repairing bridges, and the women working with the
peculiar-shaped long spades of which mention has already been made.

[Illustration: MEN AND WOMEN ROAD-MAKING.]
The wages of such labourers, it may be remarked in passing, are, for
men, 2f. 50c., and for women 1f. 50c., respectively per day. Here, too,
we begin to have indications of something besides agricultural industry.
The smell of petroleum assails the olfactory organs, and we often see
carts drawn by oxen or buffaloes, containing one or more barrels of the
mineral oil; whilst on the hills are to be seen the rude wooden
structures which cover the wells, and roads or tramways along which
the oil is carried into the valley below. As we advance further into the
mountains, evidences of another mineral treasure present themselves.
This is rock-salt, of which cartloads may be seen moving to the railway
stations or piled up in various places. This valuable mineral in no way
resembles our rock-salt, and the large blocks might easily be mistaken
for granite or rough unpolished marble. The appearance and mode of
working one of the great mines of the country will be described
hereafter; and the chief localities in which salt and petroleum are raised
will be found on our geographical map. The principal salt mines are the
Doftana (Prahova) near Campina, Poiana, and Slanic (Prahova),
Ocnele Mari (Ramnicu), Targu Ocna (Bacau). The chief petroleum
wells are also near Campina, at Colibasu, Pacuri, Doftanet, Telega &c.,
Moineste, &c., (Bacau). There are refineries at Tirgovistea, Peatra.
Ploiesti, &c.
[Footnote 9: The Roumanians recognise that a great part of the country
is much neglected, and that weeds are allowed to grow to the detriment
of agriculture. The Indépendance Roumaine, September 13 [25], 1881,
had a strong article on the subject.]
[Footnote 10: We do not intend