slight sample out of
an almost boundless store--will create an interest in such subjects, and
induce the reader to go in search of fuller information.
Many of the points touched upon have provoked endless disputations
which are not likely soon to be settled. Indeed there is hardly any line
of study one can take up in connection with Rome which does not
bristle with controversies; and a feeling of perplexity and uncertainty
continually haunts one in regard to most of the subjects. It is not only in
the vague field of the early traditions of the city, and of the medieval
traditions of the Church, that this feeling oppresses one; it exists
everywhere, even in the more solid and assured world of Roman art,
literature, and history. Where it is so difficult to arrive at settled
convictions, I may be pardoned if I have expressed views that are open
to reconsideration.
I am aware of the disadvantages connected with thus collecting
together a number of separate papers, instead of writing a uniform
treatise upon one continuous subject. The picture formed by their union
must necessarily have much of the artificiality and clumsiness of the
mosaic as compared with the oil or water-colour painting. But only in
this form could I have brought together such a great variety of
important things. And though I cannot hope that the inherent defect of
the mosaic will be compensated by its permanence--for books of this
kind do not last--yet it will surely serve some good purpose to have
such a collocation of facts regarding a place whose interest is ever
varying and never dying.
The personal element is almost entirely confined to the first chapter,
which deals on that account with more familiar incidents than the
others. Twelve years have elapsed since my memorable sojourn in
Rome; and many changes have occurred in the Eternal City since then.
I have had no opportunity to repeat my visit and to add to or correct my
first impressions, desirable as it might be to have had such a revision
for the sake of this book. I duly drank of the water of Trevi the night
before I left; but the spell has been in abeyance all these years. I live,
however, in the hope that it has not altogether lost its mystic power;
and that some day, not too far off, I may be privileged to go over the
old scenes with other and larger eyes than those with which I first
reverently gazed upon them. It needs two visits at least to form any true
conception of Rome: a first visit to acquire the personal interest in the
city which will lead at home to the eager search for knowledge
regarding it from every source; and then the second visit to bring the
mind thus quickened and richly stored with information to bear with
new comprehension and increased interest upon the study of its
antiquities on the spot.
HUGH MACMILLAN.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
A WALK TO CHURCH IN ROME
A Walk to Church in Country--In the Town--Residence in Capo le
Case--Church of San Guiseppe--Propaganda--Pillar of Immaculate
Conception--Piazza di Spagna--Staircase--Models--Beggars--Church of
Trinita dei Monti--Flowers--Via Babuino--Piazza del
Popolo--Flaminian Obelisk--Pincian Hill--Porta del Popolo--Church of
Santa Maria del Popolo--Monastery of St. Augustine--Presbyterian
Church--Villa Borghese--Ponte Molle
CHAPTER II
THE APPIAN WAY
Formation of Appian Way--Tombs on Roman Roads--Loneliness of
Country outside Rome--Porta Capena--Restoration of Appian
Way--Grove and Fountain of Egeria--Baths of Caracalla--Church of Sts.
Nereus and Achilles--Tomb of Scipios--Columbaria--Arch of
Drusus--Gate of St. Sebastian--Almo--Tomb of Geta--Plants in Valley
of Almo--Catacombs of St. Calixtus--Catacomb of
Pretextatus--Catacomb of Sts. Nereus and Achilles--Church of St.
Sebastian--Circus of Romulus--Tomb of Cæcilia Metella--Sadness of
Appian Way--Imagines Clipeatæ--Profusion of Plant and Animal
Life--Solitude--Villa of Seneca--Mounds of Horatii and Curiatii--Villa
of Quintilii--Tomb of Atticus--Casale
Rotondo--Frattocchie--Bovillæ--Albano--St. Paul's Entrance into Rome
by Appian Way
CHAPTER III
THE CUMÆAN SIBYL
Promontory of Carmel--Westmost Point of Italy--Mode of reaching
Cumæ--Few Relics of Ancient City--Uncertainty about Sibyl's
Cave--Loneliness of Site--Roman Legend of Sibylline Books--Mode of
Keeping Them--Sortes Sibyllinæ--Different Sibyls--Apocalyptic
Literature--Existing Remains of Sibylline Books--Reverence paid to
Sibyl by Christian Writers--Church of Ara Coeli--Roof of Sistine
Chapel--Prospective Attitude of Sibyl--Retrospective Characteristic of
Greek and Roman Religion--Connection between Hebrew and Pagan
Prophecy--Pagan Oracles superseded by Living Oracles of the Gospel
CHAPTER IV
FOOTPRINTS IN ROME
Footprints of our Lord in Church of Domine quo Vadis--Slabs with
Footprints in Kircherian Museum--St. Christina's Footprints at
Bolsena--Significance of Footmarks--Votive Offerings--Footprint of
Mahomet at Jerusalem--Footprint of Christ on Mount of
Olives--Footprints of Abraham at Mecca--Drusic Footprints--Phrabat,
or Sacred Foot of Buddha--Famous Footprint on Summit of Adam's
Peak in Ceylon--Footprints at Gayá--Footprints of Vishnu--Jain
Temples--Prehistoric Footprints--Tanist Stones--Dun Add in
Argyleshire--Mary's Step in Wales--Footmarks in Ireland, Norway,
Denmark, and Brittany--Classical Examples--Footprints in America
and Africa--Connection with Primitive Worship
CHAPTER V
THE ROMAN FORUM
Geological History--Volcanic Origin--Early Legends--Cloaca
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