of Nebuchadnezzar--Original position of Obelisks--Egyptian Propylons--Changes connected with Obelisks in Egypt--Transportation of Obelisks to Rome and other places--Obelisk of Heliopolis--Obelisk of Luxor--Karnac--Lateran Obelisk--Obelisk in Square of St. Peter's--Obelisk of Piazza del Popolo--Association of Fountains with Obelisks--Obelisk of Monte Citorio--Esquiline and Quirinal Obelisks--Obelisk of Trinita dei Monti--Pamphilian Obelisk--Obelisks near Pantheon--Superiority of Oldest Obelisks--Obelisk of Paris--Cleopatra's Needles in London and New York--Religious Devotion of Ancient Egyptians
CHAPTER VII
THE PAINTED TOMB AT VEII
Excursions in neighbourhood of Rome--History of Veii--Uncertainty of its Site--Journey to Isola Farnese--Village of Isola--Romantic Scenery--Desolate Downs--Roman Municipium--Old Gateway--Ponte Sodo--Necropolis of Veii--Painted Tomb--Archaic Frescoes--Objects in Inner Chamber--Etruscan Tombs imitative of Homes of the Living--Worship of the Dead--Cell? Memori?--Antiquity of Tomb at Veii--Mysterious character of Etruscan Language and History
CHAPTER VIII
HOLED STONES AND MARTYR WEIGHTS
Bocca della Verita--Primitive Worship of Clefts in Rocks and Holes in Stones--Cromlechs--Passing through beneath Cromlechs and Gates--Tigillum Sororium--Pillars in Aksa Mosque at Jerusalem--"Threading the Needle" in Ripon Cathedral--Standing Stones of Stennis and Oath of Odin--Cremave--Jewish Covenant--Martyr Stones--Originally Roman Measures of Weight--Made of Jade or Nephrite--Remarkable History of Jade--Prehistoric Glimpses--Relics of Stone Age in Rome--Conservation of things connected with Religion
CHAPTER IX
ST. ONOFRIO AND TASSO
Church of St. Onofrio--Monastery--Garden--Tasso's Oak--Grand View of Rome and Neighbourhood--Tasso's Birthplace at Sorrento--Remarkable Epoch--Bernardo Tasso--Prince of Salerno--Youth of Tasso--Visit to Rome--Sojourn at Venice--Student of Law at Padua--First Poem _Rinaldo_--University of Bologna--House of Este--Leonora--Composition of _Gerusalemme Liberata_--Death of Tasso's Father--Visit to France--Aminta and Pastoral Drama--Publication of _Gerusalemme Liberata_--Della Cruscan Academy--Ariosto--Cold Treatment of Tasso by Alfonso--Confinement in Hospital of St. Anne--Story of Hapless Love--Alleged Madness--Hospital of St. Anne--_Torrismondo_--Release of Tasso--Pilgrimage to Loretto--Residence at Naples--Connection with Milton--_Gerusalemme Conquistata_--Universal Recognition of Poet--Better Days--Closing Scenes of Life at St. Onofrio--Proposed Coronation at Capitol--Too Late--Death--Estimate of Life and Work
CHAPTER X
THE MARBLES OF ANCIENT ROME
Pleasures of Marble Hunting in Rome and Neighbourhood--Artistic and Educational Uses of Marble Fragments--Geological Formation of Rome--Building Materials of Ancient Rome--Marbles of Conquered Countries introduced into Rome--Christian Churches made up of Remains of Pagan Temples--Parian Marble--Porine and Pentelic Marbles--Hymettian Marble--Thasian, Lesbian and Tyrian Marbles--Marble of Carrara--Apollo Belvedere--Colouring of Ancient Statues and Buildings--Gibson's Colour-creed--Time's Hues on Dying Gladiator--Cipollino--Giallo Antico--Africano--Porta Santa--Fior di Persico--Pavonazzetto--Rosso Antico--Sedia Forata--Faun--Black Marbles--Lumachella Marbles--Column of Trajan--Breccias--Alabasters--Verde Antique--Subterranean Church of San Clemente--Ophite and Opus Alexandrinum--Jaspers--Murrhine Cups--Lapis Lazuli--Church of Jesuits--Abundance of Marbles in Ancient Rome
CHAPTER XI
THE VATICAN CODEX
Vatican Library--Origin and History--Monastery of Bobbio--Splendour and Charm of Library--Contents of two Principal Cabinets--Letters of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn--Vatican Codex--Freshness of Appearance--Continuity of Writing--Vacant Space at end of St. Mark's Gospel--A Palimpsest--Origin of Vatican Codex--Sinaitic and Alexandrine Codices--History of Vatican Codex--Edition of Cardinal Mai--Edition of Tischendorf--Disappearance of all Previous Manuscripts--Faults and Deficiencies of Vatican Codex--Vatican Codex used in Revised Version of New Testament--Formation of Sacred Canon
CHAPTER XII
ST. PAUL AT PUTEOLI
Landing of St. Paul in Ship Castor and Pollux at Puteoli--Loveliness of Bay of Naples--Crowded Population and Splendour of Villas--Dissoluteness of Inhabitants--Worship of Roman Emperors--St. Paul's Grief and Anxiety--Encouragement from Brethren--Christians in Tyrian Quarter at Puteoli and at Pompeii--Southern Italy Greek in Blood and Language--Quay at Puteoli--Temples of Neptune and Serapis--Changes of Level in Sea and Land--Monte Nuovo--Destruction of Village of Tripergola--Filling up of Leucrine Lake--Lake of Avernus--Sibyl's Cave--Lough Dearg and Purgatory of St. Patrick--Death Quarter among Prehistoric People in the West--Phlegr?an Fields--Scene of Wars of Gods and Giants--Elysian Fields--Pagan Heaven and Hell--Via Cumana and St. Paul--Amphitheatre of Nero--Solfatara--Relics of Volcanic Fires and Ancient Civilisation mixed together--Volcanic Fires and Landscape Beauty--Completion of Gospel in St. Paul's Journey from Jerusalem to Rome
CHAPTER I
A WALK TO CHURCH IN ROME
I know nothing more delightful than a walk to a country church on a fine day at the end of summer. All the lovely promises of spring have been fulfilled; the woods are clothed with their darkest foliage, and not another leaflet is to come anywhere. The lingering plumes of the meadow-sweet in the fields, and the golden trumpets of the wild honeysuckle in the hedges, make the warm air a luxury to breathe; and the presence of a few tufts of bluebells by the wayside gives the landscape the last finishing touch of perfection, which is suggestive of decay, and has such an indescribable pathos about it. Nature pauses to admire her own handiwork; she ceases from her labours, and enjoys an interval of rest. It is the sabbath of the year. At such a time every object is associated with its spiritual idea, as it is with its natural shadow. The beauty of nature suggests thoughts of the beauty of holiness; and the calm rest of creation speaks to us of the deeper rest of the soul in God. On the shadowed path that leads up to the house of prayer, with mind and senses quickened to perceive the loveliness and significance of the smallest object, the fern on the bank and the lichen on the wall, we feel indeed that heaven is not so much a yonder, towards which we are to move, as a here
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