Recollections of Manilla and the Philippines | Page 5

viséd by the people of the
gun-boats, at all times stationed there for that purpose, and should there
be any packages or baggage in it, the port-captain's deputy, or
aide-de-camp, puts a guard on board, who conducts you to the
custom-house for the purpose of having it inspected there; but the
examination is generally not a very minute one, and personal effects are
for the most part passed merely by opening the boxes and showing the
tops of their contents, although you may be asked whether it contains
either pocket-pistols or a bible, both of which are prohibited and
seizable.
The city of Manilla, ever since its foundation, which took place at a
very early period of the Spanish power in Luzon, from the natural
advantages combined in its situation--so judiciously chosen by
them--continued to be the capital of the Philippines, whose history ever
since may be said to have centered in the transactions which at various
times have taken place under the shadow of its walls.
It is built at the mouth of the river Pasig, on the low-lying and sandy
point formed by its junctions with the waters of the bay, between which
and the ditch that surrounds the walls on the seaward side, a level
sward stretches along the beach.
An Englishman, on arriving, perceives a marked difference between the
place and people and any of his country's Indian possessions; the air he
breathes, and the habits he gradually falls into from seeing them the
customary ones of other people, are not the same as those of his
countrymen in British India. Should he be fortunate enough to have
arrived towards the end of the year, in addition to the greater coolness
of the weather then usually prevalent, and so delightful in the tropics,
he will most probably not want opportunities for enjoying himself; as,
after suffering a penitential confinement to the house during the long
rainy season, for some time before Christmas, the cool nights and other

circumstances induce the residents to break out into greater gaiety than
is prevalent at other seasons of the year; and amusement, about that
time, generally appears to be the order of the day.
The city is not unworthy of a curiosity seeker's visit. The town, within
the fortifications, although not of great size, is for the most part well
planned, the streets being straight, regular, and some of them kept clean
and in good order, although many of the smaller ones are allowed to
fall into great disrepair. They are too narrow, moreover, for the heat of
the climate, as the confined air and stench frequently existing in them,
are principally generated by their closeness, and more especially during
the cool of the evening and early morning, are far from conducing to
the health of the population.
The latitude of the citadel, or Fuerza de Santiago, is 14° 36' N.,
longitude 127° 15' E. of Cadiz, or in latitude 14° 36' 8'' N., and
longitude 120° 53 1/2' E. of Greenwich.
The fortifications surrounding the town are regular, and apparently
strong, defences; but although the walls and ditch look formidable
enough in themselves, the want of sufficient good artillery to protect
them would probably be felt in the event of an assault, and might
render the place not a very difficult prize to a large attacking force. But
no invader need now-a-days expect to meet with such very easy success
as attended our expedition last century, at a time when weak and
priestly notions not only ruled the church, but governed the people and
the camp.
Very different feelings and modes of action are now prevalent among
the white population, from those then in operation among them.
For some years past the influx of fresh blood from Europe has been
very much greater than in former times, the consequence of which is
that a change is creeping over the place, from the energy and enterprize
of the new comers.
There is little doubt but that all this is for the best, and in the course of
a few years more, I hope to hear that the Government, increasing in

liberality and wisdom, will allow the natural capabilities of the
Philippines to be developed, and their importance appreciated, by
permitting foreigners to hold land and become planters, as without their
capital and knowledge it will probably be a long time before the
Spaniards of themselves attain these ends in the like perfection; such
measures would ensure their doing so at once.
By far the most populous and important part of the town of Manilla is
situated without the walls, and on the other side of the river from the
fortified city, the intermediate communication being by a handsome
bridge, one of the eight arches of which, having given way to the shock