Recollections of Europe

Recollections of Europe, by J. Fenimore Cooper

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Title: Recollections of Europe
Author: J. Fenimore Cooper
Release Date: November 30, 2006 [EBook #19983]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ASCII
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COLLECTION OF ANCIENT AND MODERN BRITISH AUTHORS.
VOL. CLXXII.
RECOLLECTIONS OF EUROPE.
PRINTED BY J. SMITH, 16, RUE MONTMORENCY.

RECOLLECTIONS OF EUROPE.
BY J. FENIMORE COOPER, ESQ.
AUTHOR OF "THE PILOT," "THE SPY", etc.
PARIS, BAUDRY'S EUROPEAN LIBRARY, RUE DU COQ, NEAR THE LOUVRE.
1837.

CONTENTS.
LETTER I.
Our Embarkation.--Leave-taking.--Our Abigail.--Bay of New York.--The Hudson.--Ominous Prediction.--The Prophet falsified.--Enter the Atlantic.--"Land-birds."--Our Master.--Officers of Packet-ships.--Loss of "The Crisis."--The "Three Chimneys."--Calamities at Sea. --Sailing-match.--View of the Eddystone.--The Don Quixote.--Comparative Sailing.--Pilot-boats.--Coast of Dorsetshire.--The Needles. --Lymington.--Southampton Water.--The Custom-house.
LETTER II.
Controversy at Cowes.--Custom-house Civility.--English Costume.--Fashion in America.--Quadrilles in New York.--Cowes.--Nautical Gallantry. English Beauty.--Isle of Wight Butter.--English Scenery.--M'Adamized Roads.--Old Village Church.--Rural Interment.--Pauper's Grave.--Carisbrooke Cattle.--Southampton.--Waiter at the Vine.--English Costume.--Affinity with England.--Netley Abbey.--Southampton Cockneys.
LETTER III.
Road to London.--Royal Pastime.--Cockney Coachman.--Winchester Assizes. --Approach to London.--The Parks.--Piccadilly.--Street Excursion. --Strangers in London.--Americans in England.--Westminster Abbey. --Gothic Decorations.--Westminster Hall.--Inquisitive Barber.--Pasta and Malibran.--Drury-lane Theatre.--A Pickpocket.--A Fellow-traveller. --English Gentlemen.--A Radical.--Encampment of Gipsies.--National Distinctions.--Antiquities.--National Peculiarities.
LETTER IV.
Quit England.--Approach to France.--Havre.--Our Reception there.--Female Commissionnaire.--Clamour of Drums.--Port of Havre.--Projected Enterprize.--American Enterprize.--Steam-boat Excursion.--Honfleur.--Rouen.--French Exaction.--American Porters.--Rouen Cathedral.--Our Cicerone.--A Diligence.--Picturesque Road.--European Peasantry.--Aspect of the Country.--Church at Louviers.--Village near Vernon.--Rosny.--Mantes.--Bourbon Magnificence. --Approach to Paris--Enter Paris.
LETTER V.
Paris in August 1826.--Montmartre.--The Octroi.--View of Paris. --Montmorency.--Royal Residences.--Duke of Bordeaux.--Horse-racing. --The Dauphine.--Popular feeling in Paris.--Royal Equipage.--Gardes du Corps.--Policy of Napoleon.--Centralization.
LETTER VI.
Letters of Introduction.--European Etiquette.--Diplomatic Entertainments.--Ladies in Coffee-houses.--French Hospitality.--Mr. Canning at Paris.--Parisian Hotels.--French Lady at Washington.--Receptions in Paris and in New York.--Mode of Announcement.--Republican Affectation.--Hotel Monaco.--Dinner given to Mr. Canning.--Diplomatic Etiquette.--European Ambassadors.--Prime Minister of France.--Mr. Canning.--Count Pozzo di Borgo.--Precedency at Dinner.--American Etiquette.--A French Dinner.--Servants.--Catholic Fasting.--Conversation with Canning.--English Prejudice against Americans.
LETTER VII.
English Jurisprudence.--English Justice.--Justice in France.--Continental Jurisprudence.--Juries.--Legal Injustice.--The Bar in France.--Precedence of the Law.
LETTER VIII.
Army of France.--Military Display.--Fete of the Trocadero.--Royal Review.--Royal Ordinance.--Dissatisfaction.--Hostile Demonstration.--Dispersion of Rioters.--French Cavalry.--Learned Coachman.--Use of Cavalry.--Cavalry Operations.--The Conscription.--National Defence.--Napoleon's Marshals.--Marshal Soult--Disaffection of the Army.
LETTER IX
Royal Dinner.--Magnificence and Comfort.--Salle de Diane.--Prince de Conde.--Duke of Orleans.--The Dinner-table.--The Dauphin.--Sires de Coucy.--The Dauphine.--Ancient Usages--M. de Talleyrand.--Charles X. --Panoramic Procession.--Droll Effect.--The Dinner.--M. de Talleyrand's Office.--The Duchesse de Berri.--The Catastrophe.--An Aristocratic Quarrel.
LETTER X.
Road to Versailles.--Origin of Versailles.--The present Chateau.--The two Trianons.--La Petite Suisse.--Royal Pastime.--Gardens of Versailles. --The State Apartments.--Marie Antoinette's Chamber.--Death of Louis XV. --Oeil de Boeuf.--The Theatre and Chapel.--A Quarry.--Caverns.--Compiegne.--Chateau de Pierre-font.--Influence of Monarchy.--Orangery at Versailles.
LETTER XI.
Laws of Intercourse.--Americans in Europe.--Americans and English. --Visiting in America.--Etiquette of Visits.--Presentations at Foreign Courts.--Royal Receptions.--American Pride.--Pay of the President. --American Diplomatist.
LETTER XII.
Sir Walter Scott in Paris.--Conversation with him.--Copyright in America.--Miss Scott.--French Compliments.--Sir Walter Scott's Person and Manners.--Ignorance as to America.--French Commerce.--French Translations.--American Luxury.
LETTER XIII.
French Manufactures.--Sevres China.--Tapestry of the Gobelins.--Paper for Hangings.--The Savonnerie.--French Carpets.--American Carpets. --Transfer of old Pictures from Wood to Canvass.--Coronation Coach. --The Arts in France--in America.--American Prejudice.
LETTER XIV.
False Notions.--Continental Manners.--People of Paris.--Parisian Women. --French Beauty.--Men of France.--French Soldiers.
LETTER XV.
Perversion of Institutions.--The French Academy.--Laplace.--Astronomy. --Theatres of Paris.--Immoral Plot.--Artificial Feelings.--French Tragedy.--Literary Mania.--The American Press.--American Newspapers.--French Journals--Publishing Manoeuvres.--Madame Malibran.
LETTER XVI.
Environs of Paris.--Village of St. Ouen.--Our House there.--Life on the River.--Parisian Cockneys.--A pretty Grisette.--Voyage across the Seine.--A rash Adventurer.--Village Fete.--Montmorency.--View near Paris.
LETTER XVII.
Rural Drives.--French Peasantry.--View of Montmartre.--The Boulevards. --The Abattoirs.--Search for Lodgings.--A queer Breakfast.--Royal Progresses and Magnificence.--French Carriages and Horses.--Modes of Conveyance.--Drunkenness.--French Criminal Justice.--Marvellous Stories of the Police.
LETTER XVIII.
Personal Intercourse.--Parisian Society and Hospitality.--Influence of Money.--Fiacres.--M. de Lameth.--Strife of Courtesy.--Standard of Delicacy.--French Dinners.--Mode of Visiting.--The Chancellor of France. --The Marquis de Marbois.--Political Coteries.--Paris Lodgings.--A French Party.--An English Party.--A splendid Ball.--Effects of good Breeding.--Characteristic Traits.--Influence of a Court.
LETTER XIX.
Garden of the Tuileries.--The French Parliament.--Parliamentary Speakers.--The Tribune.--Royal Initiative.--The Charter.--Mongrel Government.--Ministerial Responsibility.--Elections in France.--Doctrinaires.--Differences of Opinion.--Controversy.
LETTER XX.
Excursion with Lafayette.--Vincennes.--The Donjon.--Lagrange.--The Towers.--Interior of the House--the General's Apartments.--the Cabinet. --Lafayette's Title.--Church of the Chateau.--Ruins of Vivier.--Roman Remains.--American Curiosity.--The Table at Lagrange.--Swindling.
LETTER XXI.
Insecurity of the Bourbons.--Distrust of Americans.--Literary Visitor. --The Templars.--Presents and Invitations.--A Spy.--American Virtue. --Inconsistency.--Social Freedom in America.--French Mannerists. --National Distinctions.--A lively Reaction.
LETTER XXII.
Animal Magnetism.--Somnambules.--Magnetised Patients.--My own Examination.--A Prediction.--Ventriloquism.--Force of the Imagination.
LETTER XXIII.
Preparations for Departure.--My Consulate.--Leave Paris.--Picardy.--Cressy.--Montreuil.--Gate of Calais.--Port of Calais.--Magical Words.

PREFACE.
It may seem to be late in the day to give an account of the more ordinary characteristics of Europe. But the mass of all nations can form their opinions of others through the medium of testimony only; and as no two travellers see precisely the same things, or, when seen, view them with precisely the same eyes, this is a species of writing, after all, that is not likely to pall, or cease to be useful.