Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah, vol 2 | Page 6

good breed, called
Ahrar[FN#29] (the noble) and Namani, from the place of that name, are
to be had for any sum between $10 and $400; they are diminutive, but
exceedingly swift, surefooted, sagacious, thoroughbred, with eyes like
the
[p.17]antelope’s, and muzzles that would almost enter a tumbler. Mules
are not found at Al-Madinah, although popular prejudice does not now
forbid the people to mount them. Asses come from Egypt and Meccah:
I am told that some good animals are to be found in the town, and that
certain ignoble Badawi clans have a fine breed, but I never saw any. Of
beasts intended for food, the sheep is the only common one in this part
of Al-Hijaz. There are three distinct breeds. The larger animal comes
from Nijd and the Anizah Badawin, who drive a flourishing trade; the
smaller is a native of the country. Both are the common Arab species,
of a tawny colour, with a long fat tail. Occasionally one meets with
what at Aden is called the Berberah sheep, a totally different
beast,—white, with a black broad face, a dew-lap, and a short fat tail,
that looks as if twisted up into a knot: it was doubtless introduced by
the Persians. Cows are rare at Al-Madinah. Beef throughout the East is
considered an unwholesome food, and the Badawi will not drink cow’s
milk, preferring that of the camel, the ewe, and the goat. The flesh of
the latter animal is scarcely ever eaten in the city, except by the poorest
classes.
The manners of the Madani are graver and somewhat more pompous
than those of any Arabs with whom I ever mixed. This they appear to
have borrowed from their rulers, the Turks. But their austerity and
ceremoniousness are skin-deep. In intimacy or in anger the garb of

politeness is thrown off, and the screaming Arab voice, the voluble,
copious, and emphatic abuse, and the mania for gesticulation, return in
all their deformity. They are great talkers as the following little trait
shows. When a man is opposed to more than his match in disputing or
bargaining, instead of patiently saying to himself, S’il crache il est mort,
he interrupts the adversary with a Sall’ ala Mohammed,—Bless the
Prophet. Every good Moslem is obliged to obey such requisition by
responding, Allahumma
[p.18] salli alayh,—O Allah bless him! But the Madani curtails the
phrase to “A’n,[FN#30]” supposing it to be an equivalent, and proceeds
in his loquacity. Then perhaps the baffled opponent will shout out
Wahhid, i.e., “Attest the unity of the Deity”; when, instead of
employing the usual religious phrases to assert that dogma, he will
briefly ejaculate “Al,” and hurry on with the course of conversation. As
it may be supposed, these wars of words frequently end in violent
quarrels; for, to do the Madani justice, they are always ready to fight.
The desperate old feud between the “Juwwa,” and the “Barra,”—the
town and the suburbs—has been put down with the greatest difficulty.
The boys, indeed, still keep it up, turning out in bodies and making
determined onslaughts with sticks and stones.[FN#31]
It is not to be believed that in a town garrisoned by Turkish troops, full
of travelled traders, and which supports itself by plundering Hajis, the
primitive virtues of the Arab could exist. The Meccans, a dark people,
say of the Madani, that their hearts are black as their skins are
white.[FN#32] This is, of course, exaggerated; but it is not too
[p.19] much to assert that pride, pugnacity, a peculiar point of honour
and a vindictiveness of wonderful force and patience, are the only
characteristic traits of Arab character which the citizens of Al-Madinah
habitually display. Here you meet with scant remains of the chivalry of
the Desert. A man will abuse his guest, even though he will not dine
without him, and would protect him bravely against an enemy. And
words often pass lightly between individuals which suffice to cause a
blood feud amongst Badawin. The outward appearance of decorum is
conspicuous amongst the Madani. There are no places where

Corinthians dwell, as at Meccah, Cairo, and Jeddah. Adultery, if
detected, would be punished by lapidation according to the rigour of
the Koranic law[FN#33]; and simple immorality by religious stripes, or,
if of repeated occurrence, by expulsion from the city. But scandals
seldom occur, and the women, I am told, behave with great
decency.[FN#34] Abroad, they have the usual Moslem
[p.20]pleasures of marriage, lyings-in, circumcision feasts, holy
isitations, and funerals. At home, they employ themselves with
domestic matters, and especially in scolding “Hasinah” and
“Za’afaran.” In this occupation they surpass even the notable English
housekeeper of the middle orders of society—the latter being confined
to “knagging” at her slavey, whereas the Arab lady is allowed an
unbounded extent of vocabulary. At Shaykh Hamid’s house,