Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah, vol 1 | Page 7

to conclude that its horrid depths swarm with a
large and half-starving population; that it abounds in Wadys, valleys,
gullies and ravines, partially fertilised by intermittent torrents; and,
therefore, that the land is open to the adventurous traveller. Moreover, I
am satisfied, that in spite of all geographers, from Ptolemy to Jomard,
Arabia, which abounds in fiumaras,[FN#3] possesses not
[p.4]a single perennial stream worthy the name of river;[FN#4] and the
testimony of the natives induces me to think, with Wallin, contrary to
Ritter and others, that the Peninsula falls instead of rising towards the
south. Finally, I have found proof, to be produced in a future part of
this publication, for believing in three distinct races. 1. The aborigines

of the country, driven like the Bhils and other autochthonic Indians,
into the eastern and south-eastern wilds bordering upon the ocean. 2. A
Syrian or Mesopotamian stock, typified by Shem and Joktan, that drove
the Indigenae from the choicest tracts of country; these invaders still
enjoy their conquests, representing the great Arabian people. And 3. An
impure Syro-Egyptian clan-we personify it by Ishmael, by his son
Nabajoth, and by Edom, (Esau, the son of Isaac)-that populated and
still populates the Sinaitic Peninsula. And in most places, even in the
heart of Meccah, I met with debris of heathenry, proscribed by
Mohammed, yet still popular, while the ignorant observers of the old
customs assign to them a modern and a rationalistic origin.
I have entitled this account of my summer's tour through Al-Hijaz, a
Personal Narrative, and I have laboured to make its nature correspond
with its name, simply because "it is the personal that interests
mankind." Many may not follow my example;[FN#5] but some
[p.5]perchance will be curious to see what measures I adopted, in order
to appear suddenly as an Eastern upon the stage of Oriental life; and as
the recital may be found useful by future adventurers, I make no
apology for the egotistical semblance of the narrative. Those who have
felt the want of some "silent friend" to aid them with advice, when it
must not be asked, will appreciate what may appear to the uninterested
critic mere outpourings of a mind full of self.[FN#6]
On the evening of April 3, 1853, I left London for Southampton. By the
advice of a brother officer, Captain (now Colonel) Henry Grindlay, of
the Bengal Cavalry,-little thought at that time the adviser or the advised
how valuable was the suggestion!-my Eastern dress was called into
requisition before leaving town, and all my "impedimenta" were taught
to look exceedingly Oriental. Early the next day a "Persian Prince,"
accompanied by Captain Grindlay, embarked on board the Peninsular
and Oriental Company's magnificent screw steamer "Bengal."
[p.6]A fortnight was profitably spent in getting into the train of Oriental
manners. For what polite Chesterfield says of the difference between a
gentleman and his reverse-namely, that both perform the same offices
of life, but each in a several and widely different way-is notably as

applicable to the manners of the Eastern as of the Western man. Look,
for instance, at that Indian Moslem drinking a glass of water. With us
the operation is simple enough, but his performance includes no fewer
than five novelties. In the first place he clutches his tumbler as though
it were the throat of a foe; secondly, he ejaculates, "In the name of
Allah the Compassionate, the Merciful!" before wetting his lips; thirdly,
he imbibes the contents, swallowing them, not sipping them as he
ought to do, and ending with a satisfied grunt; fourthly, before setting
down the cup, he sighs forth, "Praise be to Allah"-of which you will
understand the full meaning in the Desert; and, fifthly, he replies, "May
Allah make it pleasant to thee!" in answer to his friend's polite
"Pleasurably and health!" Also he is careful to avoid the irreligious
action of drinking the pure element in a standing position, mindful,
however, of the three recognised exceptions, the fluid of the Holy Well
Zemzem, water distributed in charity, and that which remains after
Wuzu, the lesser ablution. Moreover, in Europe, where both extremities
are used indiscriminately, one forgets the exclusive use of the right
hand, the manipulation of the rosary, the abuse of the chair,-your
genuine Oriental gathers up his legs, looking almost as comfortable in
it as a sailor upon the back of a high-trotting -the rolling gait with the
toes straight to the front, the grave look and the habit of pious
ejaculations.
Our voyage over the "summer sea" was eventless. In a steamer of two
or three thousand tons you discover
[p.7]the once dreaded, now contemptible, "stormy waters" only by the
band-a standing nuisance be it remarked-performing
"There we lay All the day, In the Bay of Biscay, O!"
The sight of glorious Trafalgar[FN#7]| excites none of