Our Hundred Days in Europe | Page 7

glass, could
be performed with almost reckless boldness, as one cannot cut himself,
and in fact had become a pleasant amusement instead of an irksome
task. I have never used any other means of shaving from that day to this.
I was so pleased with it that I exhibited it to the distinguished tonsors of
Burlington Arcade, half afraid they would assassinate me for bringing
in an innovation which bid fair to destroy their business. They probably
took me for an agent of the manufacturers; and so I was, but not in their

pay nor with their knowledge. I determined to let other persons know
what a convenience I had found the "Star Razor" of Messrs. Kampf, of
New York, without fear of reproach for so doing. I know my
danger,--does not Lord Byron say, "I have even been accused of
writing puffs for Warren's blacking"? I was once offered pay for a
poem in praise of a certain stove polish, but I declined. It is pure
good-will to my race which leads me to commend the Star Razor to all
who travel by land or by sea, as well as to all who stay at home.
With the first sight of land many a passenger draws a long sigh of relief.
Yet everybody knows that the worst dangers begin after we have got
near enough to see the shore, for there are several ways of landing, not
all of which are equally desirable. On Saturday, May 8th, we first
caught a glimpse of the Irish coast, and at half past four in the afternoon
we reached the harbor of Queenstown. A tug came off, bringing
newspapers, letters, and so forth, among the rest some thirty letters and
telegrams for me. This did not look much like rest, but this was only a
slight prelude to what was to follow. I was in no condition to go on
shore for sight-seeing, as some of the passengers did.
We made our way through the fog towards Liverpool, and arrived at
1.30, on Sunday, May 9th. A special tug came to take us off: on it were
the American consul, Mr. Russell, the vice-consul, Mr. Sewall, Dr.
Nevins, and Mr. Rathbone, who came on behalf of our as yet unseen
friend, Mr. Willett, of Brighton, England. Our Liverpool friends were
meditating more hospitalities to us than, in our fatigued condition, we
were equal to supporting. They very kindly, however, acquiesced in our
wishes, which were for as much rest as we could possibly get before
any attempt to busy ourselves with social engagements. So they
conveyed us to the Grand Hotel for a short time, and then saw us safely
off to the station to take the train for Chester, where we arrived in due
season, and soon found ourselves comfortably established at the
Grosvenor Arms Hotel. A large basket of Surrey primroses was brought
by Mr. Rathbone to my companion. I had set before me at the hotel a
very handsome floral harp, which my friend's friend had offered me as
a tribute. It made melody in my ears as sweet as those hyacinths of
Shelley's, the music of whose bells was so

"delicate, soft, and intense, It was felt like an odor within the sense."
At Chester we had the blissful security of being unknown, and were left
to ourselves. Americans know Chester better than most other old towns
in England, because they so frequently stop there awhile on their way
from Liverpool to London. It has a mouldy old cathedral, an old wall,
partly Roman, strange old houses with overhanging upper floors, which
make sheltered sidewalks and dark basements. When one sees an old
house in New England with the second floor projecting a foot or two
beyond the wall of the ground floor, the country boy will tell him that
"them haouses was built so th't th' folks upstairs could shoot the Injins
when they was tryin' to git threew th' door or int' th' winder." There are
plenty of such houses all over England, where there are no "Injins" to
shoot. But the story adds interest to the somewhat lean traditions of our
rather dreary past, and it is hardly worth while to disturb it. I always
heard it in my boyhood. Perhaps it is true; certainly it was a very
convenient arrangement for discouraging an untimely visit. The oval
lookouts in porches, common in our Essex County, have been said to
answer a similar purpose, that of warning against the intrusion of
undesirable visitors. The walk round the old wall of Chester is
wonderfully interesting and beautiful. At one part it overlooks a wide
level field, over which the annual races are run. I noticed that here as
elsewhere the short grass was starred with daisies. They are