Notes of an Overland Journey Through France and Egypt to Bombay | Page 7

their own vague and half-faded impressions
revived and defined by her magic glass, while the novelty and
vividness of her foreign pictures make her home-readers feel that they
are nearly as much entitled to be called travellers as the fair author
herself."
[Footnote A: The first appeared in the Journal for December, 1832.]
[Footnote B: For December, 1840.]

CHAPTER I
.
* * * * *
LONDON TO PARIS.
* * * * *
Departure from London--A French Steam-vessel--Unfavourable
Weather--Arrival at Havre--Difficulties at the

Custom-house--Description of Havre--Embarkation on the Steamer for
Rouen--Appearance of the Country--Inclemency of the
Weather--Arrival at Rouen--Description of Rouen--Departure by the
Boat for Paris--Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the
Seine--Journey by the Railroad to Paris--The
_Douaniers_--Observations on the Journey up the Seine.
A strong predilection in favour of river scenery induced me, at the
commencement of an overland journey to Bombay, through France and
Egypt, to take a passage from London in a steamer bound to Havre.
Accordingly, on the 1st of September, 1839, accompanied by some
friends, one of whom was to perform the whole journey with me, I
embarked on board the _Phénix_, a French vessel, which left the Tower
Stairs at about ten o'clock in the morning.
The weather was showery, but occasional gleams of sunshine
encouraged us to hope that it might clear up, and permit us to keep the
deck during the greater part of the voyage, which we expected to
perform in eighteen hours. To the majority of readers, in these days of
universal travelling, it will be superfluous to describe a steam-boat; but
there may possibly be some quiet people who are still ignorant of the
sort of accommodation which it affords, and to whom the description
will not be unacceptable.
The _Phénix_ is a fine vessel of its class, five hundred tons burthen,
and 160-horse power. It was handsomely fitted up, and the vases of
flowers upon the chimney-piece in the principal saloon, and other
ornaments scattered about, gave to the whole a gay appearance, as if
the party assembled had been wholly bent upon pleasure. The ladies'
cabin was divided by a staircase; but there were what, in a sort of
mockery, are called "state-cabins" opening into that appropriated to the
general use, around which were sofas, and bed-places upon a sort of
shelf above, for the accommodation of the gentlemen. This apartment
was handsomely carpeted, and otherwise well furnished; the steward
and his assistant having the appearance of the better class of waiters
belonging to a well-frequented hotel: all the servants were English, and
the whole afforded a most delightful contrast to the sort of packets
which many of the party on board were quite old enough to remember.
The passengers were numerous, and apparently inclined to make
themselves agreeable to each other; one, an American, objected to the

sight of a footman, who came upon the quarter-deck for a few minutes,
observing that such a thing would not be permitted in his country.
As soon as the vessel got under weigh, preparations were made for
breakfast, which was served, _à la fourchette_, in very excellent style,
the cookery being a happy combination of the French and English
modes. At the conclusion of the repast, we repaired to the deck, all
being anxious to see the _British Queen_, which was getting her steam
up, at Gravesend. We were alongside this superb vessel for a few
minutes, putting some persons on board who had come down the river
in the _Phénix_ for the purpose of paying it a visit; and taking
advantage of a favourable breeze, we hoisted a sail, and went along at a
rate which gave us hope of a speedy arrival at Havre.
After passing the Nore, however, our progress was impeded; and at
length, when off Margate, we were obliged to lie-to, in order to wait for
the turn of the tide: the wind blowing so strongly as to render it
questionable whether we could get round the Foreland. The sun was
shining on the buildings at Margate, and the bells knolling for evening
service; affording a home-scene of comfort and tranquillity which it
was agreeable to carry abroad as one of the last reminiscences of
England.
In about three hours, we got the steam up again, and saw the British
Queen in the distance, still lying to, and apparently, notwithstanding
her prodigious power, unable to get down the Channel.
Dinner was served while the _Phénix_ lay off Margate; but it was
thinly attended, the motion of the vessel having sent many persons to
their cabins, while others were totally deprived of all appetite. An
elderly gentleman, who sate upon my left hand, complained
exceedingly of his inability to partake of the good things before him;
and one or two left the table