Narrative of a Voyage to Senegal in 1816 | Page 6

the level of
the sea. The population of Madeira is from 85,000 to 90,000,
inhabitants as we are assured by a person worthy of credit, who has
resided for some time in that fine colony.
We sailed in this manner along the coast of Madeira, because the
intention of the commander was to send a boat on shore for
refreshments; but being surprised by a calm under the land, we were
afraid of approaching too near, lest we should not be able to stem the
strong currents which set towards it. A gentle breeze arising, enabled us
to get out to sea, where the wind became favorable, and pretty brisk; it
was resolved that the boat should not go on shore: and we resumed our
course going at eight knots. We had remained three hours opposite
Funchal bay. At nightfall Madeira was in full sight: the next morning at
sun-rise we saw the islands called Salvages, and in the evening we
descried the Pico of Teneriffe, on the island of that name. This lofty
mountain, behind which the sun had just set, presented a sight truly
magnificent; its summit seemed to be crowned with fire: its elevation
above the level of the sea, is 3711 metres; it is situated in lat. 28° 17'
and in long. 19°. Several persons on board affirmed that they saw the
Pico at eight o'clock in the morning; and yet we were at least thirty
leagues distant from it; the sky it is true, was extremely clear.
The commander resolved to send a boat to St. Croix, one of the
principal towns in the island, to fetch fruits, and some filtering stones,
which are made in that town; they are only a kind of mortar, made of
the volcanic stone of the country. In consequence, during the whole
night we made short tacks; the next morning we coasted the island, at
the distance of two musket shot, and passed under the guns of a little
fort, called _Fort Français_. One of our companions leaped for joy, at
the sight of this little fort, which was raised in haste by a few
Frenchmen, when the English, under Admiral Nelson, attempted to take
possession of the Colony. It was there, said he, that a numerous fleet,
commanded by one of the bravest Admirals of the English navy, failed

before a handful of French, who covered themselves with glory and
saved Teneriffe; the Admiral was obliged to take flight, after having
lost an arm in the contest, which was long and obstinate.
Having doubled a point which extends into the sea, we entered the bay,
at the bottom of which is the town of St. Croix. The appearance of
Teneriffe is majestic: the whole island is composed of mountains,
which are extremely high, and crowned with rocks terrifying from their
size, which on the north side, seem to rise perpendicularly above the
surface of the ocean, and to threaten every moment to crush by their
fall, the vessels which pass near their base. Above them all rises the
Pico, the summit of which is lost in the clouds. We did not perceive
that the Pic was constantly covered with snow as some voyagers affirm,
nor that it vomits forth lava of melted metal; for when we observed it,
its summit seemed intirely destitute of snow and of volcanic eruptions.
At the foot of the mountain, and up to a certain elevation excavations
filled with sulphur are observed; and in its neighbourhood several of
the sepulchral caverns of the Guanches, the ancient inhabitants of the
island.
Towards noon the Echo corvette, which had parted company, rejoined
us, and passed under the stern of the frigate: she was ordered to imitate
our manoeuvres, which she instantly did; she did not send any boat on
shore. Thus united, we lay to together in the bay of St. Croix. About
four o'clock in the afternoon, the boat having returned on board we
directed our course for Senegal. They had bought in the town some
earthen jars of a large size, precious wines, oranges, lemons, banian
figs, and vegetables of all kinds.
Several unfortunate Frenchmen were on the island who had been long
prisoners of war; they lived upon what the Spaniards chose to give
them. They had been restored to liberty on the conclusion of peace, and
waited only for a favorable opportunity to return to France. Their
entreaties to the officer who commanded the boat were useless; he had
the cruelty to refuse to restore them to their country and their families.
In this boat there was another officer M. Laperère, who strongly
insisted on bringing away these unfortunate persons; his entreaties
could not move him who commanded the boat.
The depravity of morals at St. Croix is extreme; so much so