test its efficacy, but hope it may also serve
as a protection from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful about
here, and are said, at this season, to jump like grasshoppers. According
to the people of Tintalous there are three species of them, each
distinguished by a different colour--black, red, and yellow. Despite the
talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the evening to see the wells
which supply Tintalous with water. They are nothing more than holes
scooped out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied by
ma-el-matr, "rain-water," which collects only a few feet under the sand,
and passes through no minerals.
I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of the slave caravan, which
is going in a few days to Ghât. A native of that place--the chief,
indeed--was exceedingly rude at our first rencounter, and the following
dialogue took place:--
The Ghâtee. Where are you going?
Myself. I am going to Sakkatou.
The Ghâtee. What for?
Myself. To see the Sultan, who is my friend.
The Ghâtee. How do you know him?
Myself. The English have known him for years past.
The Ghâtee. Ah!
Myself. Yes.
The Ghâtee. Have you any dollars--large dollars? (making a large circle
with his thumb and forefinger.)
Myself. No: I don't carry money to Soudan, which is of no use to me.
There I shall have wadâ.
Ghâtee. Eh! Eh! But cannot you give me a turban?
Myself. No, I am not a merchant, I don't bring such things; go to the
Arab merchants and buy.
Ghâtee. Um! Um!
Myself. Do you know Mohammed Kafa in Ghât?
Ghâtee. Oh, yes!
Myself. He is my friend.
Ghâtee. Allah!
Myself. Yes; he sent me a fine dinner twice whilst I was in Ghât.
Ghâtee. Allah! Allah!
Myself. Do you know Haj Ibrahim? He is my great friend.
Ghâtee. Allah! Allah! (greatly surprised).
Myself. Why, how is it that you do not know me, Yakob, as I have been
in Ghât many years before?
At this some of the other people of the caravan cried out, "Yes, yes, we
all know Yakob;" so that I left the rude slave-merchant quite
crest-fallen. He evidently, at first, wished to assume the airs of a
Haghar, and bully me out of a present.
The caravan consisted of some thirty poor young women and children.
There was also with them a small quantity of elephants' teeth.
Now that the moon is absent and the nights are clear we have a most
splendid view of the heavens, its stars and constellations. The number
of meteors darting to and fro overhead is very great--nearly one a
minute shoots along. Some are only a faint glimmer, and have but the
existence of a moment, whilst others are very beautiful and last several
seconds.
5th.--The weather is improving; the strong gusts of wind have ceased,
and so has the rain. We have now calm and fine days with moderate
heat.
In the afternoon I received another visit from En-Noor, who came
straight into my tent, like an old friend whom I had known for twenty
years. He stopped with me at least an hour, drinking tea and smoking,
chatting the while about his past history and present affairs. He
reiterated again assurances of his friendship for the English, and his
determination to remain the ally of the Queen of England! He referred
to the time when the great Bello, sultan of Sakkatou, sent his
ambassador to request him (En-Noor) and all his people to subject
themselves to the Fellatahs. En-Noor gave him for answer, "I am under
God, the servant of God, and shall not submit myself to you or to any
one upon earth. My father, and grandfather, and great-grandfather, and
all my ancestors, ruled here, and were the servants of God, and I shall
follow in their steps." The Fellatahs then tried to seduce the people, but
they all said, "We have one Sultan, that is En-Noor." All the other
authorities of Aheer followed the example, and preserved their
independence, the people everywhere arming themselves with whatever
weapons they had in case a war should break out.
After this narrative, En-Noor spoke again of the English, and said he
should send a maharee for the Queen.
I gave him a fancy ring of the value of threepence, with a mock
diamond in it, which he immediately put on his finger with as much
glee and pride as the gayest Parisian coquette. Yusuf and the Sfaxee,
being present, swore it was diamanti; but I am quite sure the old Sheikh
understood the compliment. I also gave him a pair of bellows, a basin,
and a pint bottle with a little oil it; with all these things he was greatly
delighted, continually admiring and trying the bellows. When he went
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