which was then at 45°, whilst that of the air
was 46°. This experiment in shewing the water to be colder at a great
depth than at the surface, and in proportion to the increase of the
descent, coincides with the observations of Captain Ross and
Lieutenant Parry, on their late voyage to these seas, but is contrary to
the results obtained by Captain Buchan and myself, on our recent
voyage to the north, between Spitzbergen and Greenland, in which sea
we invariably found the water brought from any great depth to be
warmer than that at the surface.
On the 28th we tacked, to avoid an extensive stream of sailing ice. The
temperature of the water fell to 39.5°{5}, when we were near it, but
was at 41°, when at the distance of half a mile. The thermometer in the
air remained steadily at 40°. Thus the proximity of this ice was not so
decidedly indicated by the decrease of the temperature of either the air
or water, as I have before witnessed, which was probably owing to the
recent arrival of the stream at this point, and its passing at too quick a
rate for the effectual diffusion of its chilling influence beyond a short
distance. Still the decrease in both cases was sufficient to have given
timely warning for a ship's performing any evolution that would have
prevented the coming in contact with it, had the thickness of the
weather precluded a distant view of the danger.
The approach to ice would be more evidently pointed out in the
Atlantic, or wherever the surface is not so continually chilled by the
passing and the melting of ice as in this sea; and I should strongly
recommend a strict hourly attention to the thermometrical state of the
water at the surface, in all parts where ships are exposed to the
dangerous concussion of sailing icebergs, as a principal means of
security.
The following day our ship came near another stream of ice, and the
approach to it was indicated by a decrease of the temperature of the
water at the surface from 44° to 42°. A small pine-tree was picked up
much shattered by the ice. In the afternoon of the 30th, a very dense fog
came on; and, about six P.M., when sailing before a fresh breeze, we
were suddenly involved in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable
difficulty was experienced in steering through the narrow channels
between the different masses in this foggy weather, and the ship
received several severe blows.
The water, as usual in the centre of the stream, was quite smooth, but
we heard the waves beating violently against the outer edge of the ice.
There was some earthy matter on several of the pieces, and the whole
body bore the appearance of recent separation from the land. In the
space of two hours we again got into the open sea, but had left our two
consorts far behind; they followed our track by the guns we discharged.
The temperature of the surface water was 35° when amongst the ice,
38° when just clear of it, and 41.5° at two miles distant.
On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59° 58' N., longitude 59° 53' W.,
we first fell in with large icebergs; and in the evening were
encompassed by several of considerable magnitude, which obliged us
to tack the ship in order to prevent our getting entangled amongst them.
The estimated distance from the nearest part of the Labrador coast was
then eighty-eight miles; here we tried for soundings, without gaining
the bottom. The ship passed through some strong riplings, which
evidently indicated a current, but its direction was not ascertained. We
found, however, by the recent observations, that the ship had been set
daily to the southward, since we had opened Davis' Straits. The
variation of the compass was observed to be 52° 41' W.
At nine P.M., brilliant coruscations of the Aurora Borealis appeared, of
a pale ochre colour, with a slight tinge of red, in an arched form,
crossing the zenith from N.W. to S.E., but afterwards they assumed
various shapes, and had a rapid motion.
On the 5th of August, a party of the officers endeavoured to get on one
of the larger icebergs, but ineffectually, owing to the steepness and
smoothness of its sides, and the swell produced by its undulating
motion. This was one of the largest we saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained
its height to be one hundred and forty-nine feet; but these masses of ice
are frequently magnified to an immense size, through the illusive
medium of a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their dimensions
have often been exaggerated by voyagers.
In the morning of the 7th, the Island of Resolution was indistinctly seen
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